Thursday, 3 September 2015
Ghalib Al-Nasser by Rare Budgerigar Varieties - Dilutes
The first budgerigar variety to appear in the wild among the grass green budgerigars was the yellow. It was reported that yellows were seen in a large flock of green budgerigars as early as 1872. Further mutations of yellows appeared in Belgium at around the same time and a few years later in Germany. Since that time, the first colour budgerigar to mutate from the grass green, the yellow, was established and for many years was a very popular variety.
Soon after, towards the end of the 1870's, the first skyblue mutated from the grass green and thereafter many other varieties appeared either by mutation or combination. And because of the mutation being the first to be established, the yellow boom reached its height by the beginning of the last century. It has been reported that the first yellows were bred in Great Britain in 1884 by Mr. Joseph Abrahams of London. This was from a pair brought in from Belgium and two years later they were exhibited in London for the first time by a London fancier Mr. Swaysland. The yellows that were seen, bred and exhibited in those days were what we now call the light yellow. One of the original pioneers of this mutation in this country was R. J. Watts who was a founder member of The Budgerigar Club (now the Budgerigar Society) in 1925 and then president in 1938-40.
The whites did not come on the scene till the early 1920's and that was not by mutation but by a combination of colours. And as early as the appearance of the yellow, breeders were able to establish that the mutation is controlled by a recessive gene in its mode of production.
The term "dilute" was given to those yellows and whites for easy reference and because of the colour dilution of the feather. The yellow is a green coloured budgerigar with reduction in the amount of melanin granules (colour pigment) present in the feather. This reduction in colour intensity is more than that found in the greywing mutation which is about half of that of the depth of colour found in the normal varieties. The white is a blue coloured budgerigar with a reduction in the colour pigment and works in a similar way to the yellows.
The dilute variety is appealing to many fanciers throughout the World and good quality birds, whether yellow or white, have been sought by many. Good specimens have been bred over the years and won major awards on the show bench throughout the World. Of course, in the U.K. the memorable win with this variety was achieved at the 1985 Budgerigar Society club show when a baby grey white cock won the supreme award for R & W Nattrass.
The variety is also used extensively by breeders of other specialist varieties. Both ino and clearwing breeders use the dilute to advantage to improve their respective varieties by adding size, colour and feather texture. For the benefit of the reader there are three types of yellows and two types of whites. The mere fact of mentioning the different types of dilutes could confuse the fancier who would like to breed with this variety. However, it is of importance that one understands the differences.
- There is the light yellow, which was very popular but for one reason or another seems to have vanished from the U.K. The light yellow has a buttercup yellow body colour and was sometimes referred to as buttercup yellows rather than light yellows. The deviation from the light yellows are the dark yellow and olive yellow which are darker in the colour intensity. Apart from their body colour, the cheek patches are silvery white and the throat spots are absent.
- Another variety that developed over the years when greens were introduced to yellows are the suffused yellows. From their name it is understood that the yellow is suffused with the green (either light, dark or olive green) and the intensity of this suffusion can vary from minimum through to almost 50% of the normal body colour. They differ from the light yellow mainly by the colour of the cheek patches, which are pale blue to pale violet.
- The third type of yellow is the grey yellow which has a grey colour modifier present that changes the body colour to a dull mustard yellow. The cheek patches are of pale grey. Both the suffused and grey yellows have pale grey throat spots. Each of the above types of yellow are easily identifiable from the body and cheek patches colour.
- the suffused and
- the grey white.
It is not always easy to explain why a variety vanishes and in the case of the light (buttercup) yellow the only possible explanation is that they were small when compared to the suffused or grey yellows. I saw many examples of the light yellows on my trip to Australia in 1994. The Australians refer to them as black-eyed yellows.
Earlier I mentioned that the dilutes are a recessive variety and the laws of producing recessive varieties is well documented. There are three pairs that can produce visual dilutes. These are:
- Dilute paired to dilute will produce all dilutes.
- Dilute paired to a non dilute that is split for dilute will produce 50% dilutes
- while the last type of pairing is the mating of two split dilutes together which results in only 25% of the chicks being dilutes.
This just shows how a recessive variety can appear without one's knowledge. The dilute also has a close relationship with two other recessive varieties namely the greywing and clearwing (yellow-wing and whitewing). Even though they are all recessive, the greywings and clearwings are dominant to the dilutes. When pairing a greywing (or clearwing) to a dilute all the chicks will be greywings (or clearwings) split for dilutes. Because of the superior quality of the dilute to the clearwing many clearwing breeders find the dilute of valuable asset in their breeding programme.
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Ghalib Al-Nasser By Rare Budgerigar Varieties, The Lacewing
Fanciers have always had a fascination for livestock possessing redeyes and Budgerigar fanciers are no exception.
The Lacewing Budgerigar is another mutation that has a similar appearance to the Lutino and Albino with the clear body colour of yellow (in the green series) or white (in the blue series) and having the red eye as well. Perhaps the interest in this variety is restricted in comparison to the two Ino varieties but still has its appeal to many including myself. All the above varieties come from one and the same factor. This has the effect of eliminating the melanin of the black pigment in the feathers and even the eyes of the bird and therefore turning the bird from a green or a blue to a clear yellow or white with that red eye effect. The Lacewing variety is similar in appearance to that of the Lutino and Albino as they have a clear body colour, yellow or white. But the marking on cheeks, back of head, neck, wings and tail is of cinnamon brown. The cheek patches are of pale violet instead of silvery white in the Ino variety and they have well defined cinnamon brown throat spots. They have fleshy pink feet and the cocks also have a fleshy pink cere. Eyes are the same as the Inos; red with a white iris ring.
The Lacewing variety has been bred since 1948. It was recorded that hens appeared in a Lutino stud from a Light Green cock of unknown history paired to a Lutino hen. It seems that these 'badly' marked Lutinos and their normal brothers were disposed of. The late Cyril Rogers was able to trace and obtain one of these normal offspring cocks and after mating to a number of normal hens the Lacewing variety was established. Some of those Lacewings were exported to various parts of the World including South Africa where it was further established. Cyril exhibited the first Lacewing at the 1951 National Exhibition and in late 1968 the Budgerigar Society standardised the variety. The interest in this variety was revived when, on a judging visit, the late Alf Ormerod and Brian Byles brought back examples of this variety from South Africa and bred them with a degree of success. The South African strain seemed to have much deeper and clearer markings and hence the appeal in them was greater.
I obtained my initial Lacewing in 1977 from the Byles strain and was reasonably successful with them prior to my giving up bird keeping in 1979 for 3 years. In 1983 I obtained a quality pair from the late Alf Ormerod which started me back with Lacewings. The variety is sex-linked, like the Ino, and therefore hens cannot be split for Lacewing while cocks can. Hens, because of the sex-linked recessive inheritance genetic theory, can only be either visual Lacewing or non-Lacewing.
The possible pairings with this variety when paired to non-Lacewings (let us use the word "normal" for simplicity) are:
| 1 | Lacewing cock x Lacewing Hen | 50% Lacewing cocks50% Lacewing hens |
| 2 | Lacewing cock x normal hen | 50% normal/Lacewing cocks50% Lacewing hens |
| 3 | Normal cock x Lacewing hen | 50% normal/Lacewing cocks50% normal hens |
| 4 | Normal/Lacewing cock x Lacewing hen | 25% Lacewing cocks25% normal/Lacewing cocks 25% Lacewing hens 25% normal hens |
| 5 | Normal/Lacewing cock x normal hen | 25% normal cocks25% normal/Lacewing cocks 25% Lacewing hens 25% normal hens |
The Amos & Thumwood partnership achieved great heights with a Lacewing Yellow cock two years ago when they won best in show at a championship show. Like the Ino, the suffusion of the green or blue in the body colour is an undesirable fault. One way of ensuring that this suffusion does not occur is the use of the grey factor birds (Greys and Grey Greens). However, this has the undesirable effect of dulling the body colour if continuously used.
The aim is to produce Lacewings with deep buttercup yellow and the use of dark factor birds as breeding partners will go a long way towards achieving that. Another area to consider is the deep cinnamon brown marking on the wings, mantle etc. There are two schools of thoughts on how to achieve that.
One school of thought encourages the use of Cinnamon birds as partners while the other encourages the use of normals. It can be said that the Cinnamon will dilute the body colour including the wing marking. It is quite apparent that producing a quality Lacewing with the correct marking is not an easy task and here lies the challenge.
My preference is to outcross Lacewings to normals only and without introducing other varieties into the equation. Having said that, there has been scientific evidence, through the work of Dr. Trevor Daniel in the early 1980's, stating that the Lacewing is in fact a Cinnamon Ino. He went about proving his theory by mating an Ino to a Cinnamon and cross mating youngsters, which eventually resulted in him producing a Lacewing. This is due to the "crossover" of the genes because the cinnamon gene and the Ino gene are located very close to each other on the chromosome. However, many Lacewing enthusiasts have disagreed with this theory believing that the Lacewing is a mutation in its own right. Regardless of what theory one would like to accept the Lacewing is a beautiful variety that has its own place on the show bench.
http://budgerigarunivers.blogspot.com/
Ghalib Al-Nasser The Crested Budgerigar
Budgerigar fanciers have heard about, or seen, the Crested variety and a few have appreciated their merits by taking up the challenge of breeding them. My aim is to give some background about this variety.
Origin
The Crested Budgerigar is neither a recent mutation, an abnormal feather growth nor in any way related to "feather-dusters". However, it is a naturally occurring mutation which owes nothing to man for its appearance, except for its development. This mutation causes the feathers, in certain limited areas of the bird's body, to change the direction of their growth, causing feather disturbances.
The earliest recorded occurrence of a Crested mutation was in Sydney, Australia in about 1920. From this bird, presumably, the Australian-strain Crests was bred. As there was no control over their export at that time, it is a possibility that some Crested birds were brought to other countries. But we in the CBC, believe that the Crested variety has a multi-origin as with certain other Budgerigar varieties (e.g., Yellow-Face and Opaline). Records tell us that other Crested mutants appeared on the European continent just prior to the second World War. From these, the Crested variety probably spread throughout Europe in the short period prior to the war.
There are records of another Crested mutant occurring in Canada about 1948. The Crests in the United States are descended from this bird, although the route taken was not the obvious one. Crested birds were smuggled into the US from Mexico. These Crests, which came from this country, were descendants from Crests imported from Canada in the early fifties. This is a good example of a variety's ability to spread all over the world in a short space of time.
Examples of the Crest were first imported into this country in 1938 by Mrs R Brown of Morecambe, Lancs., from an Australian strain. They were breeding freely by 1938.
We, in the United Kingdom, generally identify the above mutations as the "Continental" strain and the "American" strain. The breeding pattern for both strains is exactly the same, they differ only in the position of centre (or locus) of the Crest. The Continental Strain has the centre of the crest just above the cere, resulting in a strong splay of feathers which bend over the head down to eye level. The American strain has the centre of the Crest slightly further back on the head, resulting in the feathers standing more or less upright with a splay only at the ends, if at all. But over the years, these two strains have become intermingled and now either strain can produce the other.
The variations in each type of Crest are endless. A shift of the locus of the crest slightly to one side of the head will give a crest a lopsided appearance. However, this will not alter their breeding pattern at all. There are even some birds with double crests, which have a very untidy appearance. These birds have one crest out in front with the other feather disturbance immediately behind. Another type of Crest that occurs now and then is the "Frilled" type. Birds of this type have a feather disturbance not only on the front of the head and along the back of the skull but also also between their wings. "Crest-bred" birds are the non-crested progeny from Crest matings and are indistinguishable from ordinary Budgerigars. However, Crest-bred birds are of considerable value for Crest production when mated with Crested partners. Thus, it is important to keep a record of their identity.
Many theories have been put forward over the years regarding Crest genetics, but the one that the CBC has adopted is the "Initiator Theory". This theory put forward in June 1970 by Dr J E Fox of Kansas University, USA, superseded his earlier theory the "Inhibitor Theory" which he published in Cage and Aviary Birds on May 28 1964. The "Initiator Theory" stated that the formation of a Crest depended upon the complimentary action of the two types of semi-dominant genes; a Crest initiating gene and the Crest determining gene. When these are both present as a single factor, the Crest is tufted; when there is one inhibitor and two determiners, the Crest is half-circular; when there are two inhibitors and either one or two determiners, the Crest is full circular. The theory further states that when there is only one semi-dominant gene present without the other, then there is no visual crest and the bird is a Crest-bred (which is different from the pure normals which have no Crested genes).
For convenience, I shall use the term "Crest" as referring to any type of Crest, regardless of the sex, in explaining the breeding pattern of this variety.
In conclusion, I do hope that I have succeeded in passing on some information about the Crested variety and whetted fanciers' appetites. Indeed the variety offers a challenge in breeding for colour as well as for crest.
http://budgerigarunivers.blogspot.com/
The earliest recorded occurrence of a Crested mutation was in Sydney, Australia in about 1920. From this bird, presumably, the Australian-strain Crests was bred. As there was no control over their export at that time, it is a possibility that some Crested birds were brought to other countries. But we in the CBC, believe that the Crested variety has a multi-origin as with certain other Budgerigar varieties (e.g., Yellow-Face and Opaline). Records tell us that other Crested mutants appeared on the European continent just prior to the second World War. From these, the Crested variety probably spread throughout Europe in the short period prior to the war.
There are records of another Crested mutant occurring in Canada about 1948. The Crests in the United States are descended from this bird, although the route taken was not the obvious one. Crested birds were smuggled into the US from Mexico. These Crests, which came from this country, were descendants from Crests imported from Canada in the early fifties. This is a good example of a variety's ability to spread all over the world in a short space of time.
Examples of the Crest were first imported into this country in 1938 by Mrs R Brown of Morecambe, Lancs., from an Australian strain. They were breeding freely by 1938.
We, in the United Kingdom, generally identify the above mutations as the "Continental" strain and the "American" strain. The breeding pattern for both strains is exactly the same, they differ only in the position of centre (or locus) of the Crest. The Continental Strain has the centre of the crest just above the cere, resulting in a strong splay of feathers which bend over the head down to eye level. The American strain has the centre of the Crest slightly further back on the head, resulting in the feathers standing more or less upright with a splay only at the ends, if at all. But over the years, these two strains have become intermingled and now either strain can produce the other.
Type of Crest
There are three types of Crest: tufted, half-circular and full circular. The CBC has devised a standard and pictorial ideal for each, which has been approved and recognised by the Budgerigar Society. But in a feather mutation like this, the countless variations of the feather disturbance and the amount of uplift prevents the CBC from applying its standards too rigidly. The standards, however, do provide a guide to breeders and judges. The main judging criterion, as far as the Crest is concerned, is the neatness of the Crest rather than its shape. The tufted (or Cockatiel) type of Crest is the most common and it varies from a mild disturbance on the head to a strong tuft. However, there should always be an upright crest of feathers, up to three-eighths of an inch high, rising just above the cere. The next most common Crest is the half-circular type. This Crest type should be a half-circle of feathers falling or rising in a fringe above the cere. The feathers at the back of the head should be quite flat. The full circular type of Crest goes all around the head and should be a flat round crest with the feathers radiating from the centre of the head. This type is the most aesthetic and the most in demand with fanciers.The variations in each type of Crest are endless. A shift of the locus of the crest slightly to one side of the head will give a crest a lopsided appearance. However, this will not alter their breeding pattern at all. There are even some birds with double crests, which have a very untidy appearance. These birds have one crest out in front with the other feather disturbance immediately behind. Another type of Crest that occurs now and then is the "Frilled" type. Birds of this type have a feather disturbance not only on the front of the head and along the back of the skull but also also between their wings. "Crest-bred" birds are the non-crested progeny from Crest matings and are indistinguishable from ordinary Budgerigars. However, Crest-bred birds are of considerable value for Crest production when mated with Crested partners. Thus, it is important to keep a record of their identity.
Crest Genetics
Crest genetics are not at all straight-forward, and it is not possible to classify the Crest gene as dominant, recessive or sex-linked. The Crest gene cannot be fully dominant (as are the Grey or Dominant Pied), because when a Crest is paired with a Crest-bred, the expectation of crested progeny will be more than that of when a Crest is paired to a pure normal (i.e., a bird with no Crest background). In fact, even a Crest-bred paired to a normal can produce crested progeny. On the other hand, the Crest gene cannot be fully recessive because crested progeny can be produced from a first cross between a Crest and a pure normal. This is why we in the CBC, do not refer to non-crested progeny as "splits" but always as 'Crest-breds'. There is no correspondence between the "Crest-bred" and the "split" birds of say, Recessive Pieds or sex-linked Opalines. Also we have found that the laws governing the sex-linkage theory do not help in explaining Crest genetics, as there is no difference between the genetic potential of cocks and that of hens.The "Initiator" Theory
In fact, after having bred this variety since 1971, I have come to the conclusion (in agreement with the few true geneticists in the fancy) that the Crest gene behaves as semi-dominant to the wild type.Many theories have been put forward over the years regarding Crest genetics, but the one that the CBC has adopted is the "Initiator Theory". This theory put forward in June 1970 by Dr J E Fox of Kansas University, USA, superseded his earlier theory the "Inhibitor Theory" which he published in Cage and Aviary Birds on May 28 1964. The "Initiator Theory" stated that the formation of a Crest depended upon the complimentary action of the two types of semi-dominant genes; a Crest initiating gene and the Crest determining gene. When these are both present as a single factor, the Crest is tufted; when there is one inhibitor and two determiners, the Crest is half-circular; when there are two inhibitors and either one or two determiners, the Crest is full circular. The theory further states that when there is only one semi-dominant gene present without the other, then there is no visual crest and the bird is a Crest-bred (which is different from the pure normals which have no Crested genes).
Breeding with Crests
Even if the "Initiator Theory" is accepted, there still remains a certain amount in the breeding pattern of Crests to be explained. One thing of which we are certain, is that Crests as a variety, are true breeding as far as the passing on of the visual Crest character is concerned, although the Crest type when bred with a Crest-bred can produce any other types of Crest. That is, a Tuft paired to a Crest-bred can produce all three types of Crests; a circular Crest paired to a Crest-bred can also produce all three types of Crests and so can a circular Crest paired to a Crest-bred. The main factor is the parentage of the Crest-bred.For convenience, I shall use the term "Crest" as referring to any type of Crest, regardless of the sex, in explaining the breeding pattern of this variety.
- Crest × Crest matings will produce the highest proportion of Crested progeny plus some Crest-breds. However, I feel that there are no advantages to be gained in such pairings as almost invariably they will produce Crests of poor quality and little substance.
- Crest × Crest-bred matings will produce the next highest proportion Crested progeny plus Crest-breds and pure normals (with no Crest background). This is in fact, the type of pairing that is most recommended for the maintenance of size and type. It is important that when using this pairing, the Crest-bred should come from a pairing in which as least one parent was visually Crested.
- Crest × normal matings will produce a few Crests but mostly Crest-breds and normals. However, this is the sort of pairing one has to make now and then to improve the size and quality of the Crests and Crest-breds. The normal parent used, however, needs to be of outstanding size and type.
- Crest-bred × Crest-bred and Crest-bred × normal matings have been known to produce the occasional Crested bird. (This proves that the Crest gene is more than merely dominant in character). However, this is not a recommended mating for Crest production, unless one is breeding for the pet market, as a lot of "wastage" is produced.
In conclusion, I do hope that I have succeeded in passing on some information about the Crested variety and whetted fanciers' appetites. Indeed the variety offers a challenge in breeding for colour as well as for crest.
http://budgerigarunivers.blogspot.com/
Friday, 19 June 2015
Pied Crest Baby cock 2015 A.N 55 Budgerigar
Nassaryab Sharwani A.N budgerigar
Pied Crest Baby cock 2015 A.N 55 Budgerigar
Nassaryab Sharwani A.N budgerigar
Sunday, 14 June 2015
Facts About African Grey Parrots
1. There is more that one type of African Grey parrot.
While all types of African Grey parrots look similar, there are actually two distinct types and a couple of lesser known subspecies of this beloved bird. The most popular and common is the Congo African Grey. The Congo African Grey is the largest of the African Grey parrots, sporting a lighter grey color in its plumage, and a solid black beak. The second most common type is the Timneh African Grey, which was recognized as a species in and of itself in 2012. The Timneh African Grey is slightly smaller than the Congo, and its feathers are darker in color. Another defining characteristic of the Timneh Grey is that it has a horn colored upper mandible instead of a black one. Despite their differences, both of these types of African Grey parrots make excellent pets, and both are equally intelligent.
2. African Greys are known to be among the most intelligent bird species.
Besides being one of the most popular pet bird species, African Grey Parrots are also one of the most intelligent. In recent years, much research has been done on the mental capacity of African Grey parrots by scientists around the world. The most famous instance of this is the work that Dr. Irene Pepperberg conducted with her famous African Grey, Alex. Using Alex and other African Greys in research trials focusing on communication, she was able to show that not only can African Grey parrots learn an incredible amount of human words, they can learn to use them in context to communicate with their owners. It has been said that these impressive birds have the mental and emotional capacities of a 5 year old human child.
3. Caring for an African Grey can be hard work.
Because they are so intelligent, African Grey Parrots form very strong bonds with their owners, and can be quite emotionally needy. Due to this trait, they do best with owners who can devote ample time to handling and socializing with them on a daily basis. In addition, African Grey parrots need a lot of exercise in order to keep their strong muscles toned and maintain an adequate physical condition. This means that they must be able to spend several hours per day outside of their cages, playing in supervised, "parrot proof" areas.
4. African Grey parrots can live for a very long time.
African Grey parrots have been known to live for up to 80 years in captivity, so it's imperative that those who adopt them can commit to a lifetime of living with a bird. African Grey parrots are too emotionally sensitive to be able to handle being bounced from owner to owner, but sadly many of them do have several homes throughout their lifetimes because people rush into adopting them without fully thinking it through. You can help put an end to situations like these by helping to educate people about African Grey ownership, and by making sure that you set a good example for bird owners who might be interested in adopting such a parrot.
5. African Greys are hard to keep occupied.
Most people can relate to the difficulties of keeping a young child occupied, so it's not a stretch to say that keeping a highly intelligent bird from getting bored can be similar. African Grey parrots need plenty of mental stimulation in order to stay happy and healthy, so they must be provided with a variety of toys and other ways to exercise their minds. Otherwise, they can resort to destructive behavior and develop unpleasant habits that might require professional intervention.
Bathing Your Bird
Primping and Preening
The How-To of Grooming and Bathing Your Bird
Grooming a companion bird might seem like an absurd notion. Only poodles and longhaired cats need grooming, right? Not so. An owner that wants to keep her bird clean, safe, healthy, and companionable makes an effort to groom it.
Birds don’t need to be brushed and combed, and will certainly take offense at a little pink bow tied to the top of the head, but will appreciate a regular bath, feather grooming, and nail clipping, when necessary. These things constitute basic bird care, the same as offering proper nutrition, housing, and exercise. Maintaining your bird’s skin, feathers, and nails, goes a long way toward keeping your bird healthy.
Bath Time for Birdy!
Wild birds don’t need anyone to remind them to take a bath or groom their feathers. Just walk outside after a heavy rainfall and watch the sparrows dipping their heads in and out of puddles at the curb. Not the most sanitary bath, but a bath nonetheless.
When you say the word b-a-t-h in front of your feathered friend, does he immediately start looking for a hiding place? He’s not alone. Many companion parrots like water about as much as they like toxic fumes. This is a parrot that cringes when the spray bottle comes out, that flies off its perch and makes a beeline for the space behind the couch just as your finger triggers the first drop. It’s not that Polly doesn’t want to bathe. He might now know how.
It seems strange that a wild animal—your companion bird—doesn’t understand that a bath is fun and healthful, but it makes sense when you realize that certain bird behaviors are learned by watching other birds. Since most companion birds don’t have other feathered role models, some behaviors, perhaps even bathing, may seem as foreign as eating broccoli (another thing we’d like our birds to do!). Even if terror glints in your bird’s eye when you break out the hose, there’s a way to bathe him and still maintain his dignity—and yours.
Bathing is not just for aesthetics. Water on the skin helps to keep the amount of dander down (especially on cockatiels, cockatoos, and African greys) and adds much-needed moisture to the skin. Bathing promotes feather grooming (preening), which promotes the spreading of oil from the oil gland at the base of the tail, leading to tighter, shinier, more waterproof feathers in most species. Bathing helps a molting bird remove itchy feather sheathes, and allows breeding birds to take essential moisture back to their eggs in the nest.
Using Natural Instincts to Bathe a Dirty Birdy
Some companion birds are natural bathers, jumping in the water dish or underneath the running water in the sink at every opportunity. Presenting this bird with a special bathing dish is about all you have to do. But some birds are more reluctant, and owners of these birds often give up on proposing a bath. Don’t be daunted. Using your bird’s natural instincts may help to get him appreciating bath time.
Some wild parrots don’t often have the luxury of landing on the ground to bathe—this would make them easy targets for predators. Parrots that feed primarily on the ground in dry grasslands, such as budgies, cockatiels, and lovebirds will be more apt to bathe in a shallow dish of water placed at the bottom of the cage. Birds that feed primarily in the treetops, such as Amazons, macaws, and conures, may respond better to a simulated rain shower, which is how they would receive a bath in the wild.
Bob and Liz Johnson know about bath time better than most bird owners. They live with over one hundred macaws and a handful of cockatoos, African greys, lories, and conures in a sub-tropical rainforest they built themselves to house abused and abandoned birds. Bath time for the Johnson’s flock comes mainly during the wet season.
“Our birds bathe in the rain,” said the Johnsons. “Some people recommend bathing them every day, even twice a day. We see them in a natural situation and they don’t bathe every day. The first time it rains after it hasn’t rained in a while, they go crazy and get drenched. If it rains the next day they hide under the shelter. In a natural setting, given the choice, they don’t bathe every day. In a drier climate, or indoors, it makes sense to mist them every day. It depends on the weather.”
Actual rain might be an ideal bath for most birds, but it’s not ideal for most bird owners—even the weatherman can’t accurately predict rain, and it might be cold or dangerous to allow your bird to bathe in it. A simulated rain shower will have to do. Using a mister, spray bottle, or hose, aim a light flow of water up and over your bird’s head. Make sure there’s ample room on the perch for your bird to step out of the shower should it want to. Drenching your bird to the skin once a week is ideal. If your bird likes bathing, you can offer a bath frequently, but don’t force it. Remember, always avoid spraying directly into the eyes and don’t continue to spray a terrified bird.
The Johnsons have also found that simply hearing the sound of rain compels some birds to bathe. The handicapped birds that don’t live in the rainforest bathe in their water dishes when it rains and even when Liz runs the blender! The Johnsons suggest that the noise of running water might help a reluctant bather to take the plunge.
Bathing Basics
Bathe a bird only in warm weather or when it will have ample time to dry in a warm place. Bathe in the morning or afternoon so that your bird doesn’t go to sleep wet. Blow-drying is possible, but not recommended—it can cause fright and overheating.
Use only warm, plain, clean water for bathing. Some people use commercial bathing products, but these can cause eye irritation and have added scent that your bird doesn’t need—healthy birds do not have a foul odor (please excuse the pun). For an added health benefit, add a few drops of colloidal silver to the bath water, as the Johnsons do; silver is a natural antibacterial agent and does not irritate the eyes—the pioneers put silver coins in their milk and water canteens to keep the liquid fresh. Some people add drops of aloe or glycerin to the water when they plan on showing a bird in a bird show. These items make the feathers very shiny, but prolonged use is not recommended.
Cockatiels, cockatoos, and African greys have a fine powder that comes from the powder-down feathers growing close to their skin. This powder serves as a natural bath to keep the feathers clean, but also serves to create allergies in their owners. You may find that no matter how much water you spray on one of these birds, it simply doesn’t get wet—the water rolls right off. You might have to try harder to get a reluctant powdery bird to bathe, but the payoff is worth the work.
Grooming the Feathers
Birds groom their feathers by “preening” them. Each feather is made from thin strands that “zip up” to form the feather. Each feather has a distinct place and function. The bird must make sure that every feather is properly zipped and in place so that it can fly and regulate its body temperature. You don’t have to worry about this minuscule grooming—a healthy bird will do it on its own.
Birds that live together will preen each other—this is called “allopreening.” Birds in pairs groom hard to reach places, such as the top of the head. If you are your bird’s only buddy, then you can help to remove the feather sheathes that emerge on his head during molting, but be careful because removing them too forcefully can hurt. Simply rub a fingernail over the sheath and it should begin to come off if it’s ready—if not, your bird will let you know with a little nip!
Clipping the Wings
Wing clipping is the act of cutting the first seven to ten flight feathers on a bird’s wings to disable it from flying. There are two camps on this issue: one camp that opposes the practice and one that endorses it. Some say that birds are meant to fly and are at a disadvantage in many ways when the wings are clipped. The other camp asserts that a flighted bird living in the average household is in jeopardy from the many dangers lurking within ordinary things, like ceiling fans and open windows.
Both sides have valid points—it’s up to you whether or not you clip your bird’s wings. Most bird owners do clip, ensuring, at the very least, that they don’t lose their bird.
Wing clipping hurts just as much as a haircut hurts us—except that we don’t use our hair to move us around! It’s not a good idea to trim your bird’s wings yourself if you don’t know what you’re doing. This can lead to a poor clip and a freaked out parrot. Your avian veterinarian or local bird shop will provide this service for a small fee. Once you see it done a few times, you may feel confident enough to try it on your own.
Clipping isn’t necessarily difficult to do on your own—it’s mastering holding your bird properly that’s tricky. Two people are often better then one during the clipping procedure: one to hold the bird wrapped safely in a towel or washcloth and one to extend the wing and clip the feathers. Remember, a bird’s bones are very fragile and manhandling can be deadly. Birds have air sacs (part of the respiratory system) in some of their bones, and can die or become very ill if one of these bones breaks.
The flight feathers are the first ten long feathers at the end of the wing when you are looking at it from underneath. If you look at the wing from above you will see that these long flight feathers are covered halfway by a set of shorter feathers. The flight feathers are clipped at the point where these two feathers meet. To make a clean clip, cut each feather individually with sharp scissors—if you cut them all at once they will be uneven and pointy. A ragged clip doesn’t look nice, and the ends of the feathers can stick into the bird’s body uncomfortably and cause him to start picking and plucking.
Heavy birds, such as Amazons and African greys, need a conservative clip—you will only trim the first five to seven flights off of the wing, though this varies from bird to bird. These heavy birds need some of their flight feathers to glide to the ground should they fall, or risk breaking the breastbone or beak on a hard floor. Lighter birds, such as cockatiels and budgies, need a more drastic clip, consisting of all ten flight feathers and maybe even some of the next set of feathers toward the body on the wing, the lift feathers. Cockatiels have been known to fly with only their flight feathers clipped.
Feathers grow back with the next molt, about every six months or so, which is why it’s important to keep an eye on feather growth. Many an owner has lost a bird to the great blue yonder thinking that the bird was still clipped.
Bleeding is the one physical danger in clipping a bird’s wings, which happens when a new feather, called a blood feather, is accidentally cut. The blood feather is recognizable by the sheath surrounding it or by a reddish or dark vein in the center of the feather. If you notice bleeding, grip the wing firmly and pull the feather out of the wing in one quick motion. If you’re squeamish, put some coagulant on the wound and take your bird to the veterinarian immediately.
Trimming the Nails
Trimming the nails is a procedure done as much for the owner as for the bird. Bird’s nails are like our nails—they keep growing, and unless they are trimmed or filed, can become uncomfortable.
A long-time theory holds that wild birds’ nails are kept filed by landing on branches and other rough surfaces. According to the Johnsons, who keep their birds in an environment as close to a natural setting as possible, say that nails may become sharp for a good reason. “Many people have said that birds’ nails don't overgrow in the wild because they perch in trees with various sized branches. We have not found this to be true. Ours still become sharp. In the wild, the sharpness is an asset, because they can grip and fight better with sharp nails.”
Unfortunately, sharpness is not an asset in the average home. Overgrown nails can curl around and stab the feet, and are surely painful for the owner. Trim nails when you notice them becoming sharp. It might be necessary to hold some birds while clipping nails, but most tame birds will allow an owner to pick up a foot and snip the nails one by one. This is the preferred method. If your bird is reluctant, trim one nail a day and offer a treat each time for good behavior. You can use the same clipper you use on your own nails.
Just like us, a bird has two parts to the nail: the dead part and the living part, commonly called the quick. Trim only the dead part at the very end of the nail. The quick is where the blood flow is, and cutting into it is painful and causes bleeding. The quick easy to see in birds with light colored toes as the darker red part of the nail. You will have to be much more careful trimming dark nails where you can’t see the quick. If the nail begins to bleed, apply a coagulant and trim the other nails another day.
A concrete “grooming perch” is a fine addition to your bird’s cage, but will not do all the work of keeping the nails trimmed. Make sure you offer perches of a wide variety of materials and sizes. Sandpaper perches can trap moisture and cause foot problems, so opt for the solid concrete perch instead.
Ultimately, your bird is responsible for most of its grooming, and if it’s healthy and happy, it should be primping and preening too. Regular bathing, grooming of the wing feathers, and nail clipping are all you have to do to keep your bird well groomed and gorgeous. Shiny, tight feathers, healthy feet, and a properly grown beak are the result of an all-around healthy bird eating a nutritious diet and living in the proper housing. Think of grooming using the chicken and the egg paradox—keeping your bird well groomed helps to keep it healthy, and keeping your bird healthy helps to keep it well groomed. Voila! A pretty bird.
Birds don’t need to be brushed and combed, and will certainly take offense at a little pink bow tied to the top of the head, but will appreciate a regular bath, feather grooming, and nail clipping, when necessary. These things constitute basic bird care, the same as offering proper nutrition, housing, and exercise. Maintaining your bird’s skin, feathers, and nails, goes a long way toward keeping your bird healthy.
Bath Time for Birdy!
Wild birds don’t need anyone to remind them to take a bath or groom their feathers. Just walk outside after a heavy rainfall and watch the sparrows dipping their heads in and out of puddles at the curb. Not the most sanitary bath, but a bath nonetheless.
When you say the word b-a-t-h in front of your feathered friend, does he immediately start looking for a hiding place? He’s not alone. Many companion parrots like water about as much as they like toxic fumes. This is a parrot that cringes when the spray bottle comes out, that flies off its perch and makes a beeline for the space behind the couch just as your finger triggers the first drop. It’s not that Polly doesn’t want to bathe. He might now know how.
It seems strange that a wild animal—your companion bird—doesn’t understand that a bath is fun and healthful, but it makes sense when you realize that certain bird behaviors are learned by watching other birds. Since most companion birds don’t have other feathered role models, some behaviors, perhaps even bathing, may seem as foreign as eating broccoli (another thing we’d like our birds to do!). Even if terror glints in your bird’s eye when you break out the hose, there’s a way to bathe him and still maintain his dignity—and yours.
Bathing is not just for aesthetics. Water on the skin helps to keep the amount of dander down (especially on cockatiels, cockatoos, and African greys) and adds much-needed moisture to the skin. Bathing promotes feather grooming (preening), which promotes the spreading of oil from the oil gland at the base of the tail, leading to tighter, shinier, more waterproof feathers in most species. Bathing helps a molting bird remove itchy feather sheathes, and allows breeding birds to take essential moisture back to their eggs in the nest.
Using Natural Instincts to Bathe a Dirty Birdy
Some companion birds are natural bathers, jumping in the water dish or underneath the running water in the sink at every opportunity. Presenting this bird with a special bathing dish is about all you have to do. But some birds are more reluctant, and owners of these birds often give up on proposing a bath. Don’t be daunted. Using your bird’s natural instincts may help to get him appreciating bath time.
Some wild parrots don’t often have the luxury of landing on the ground to bathe—this would make them easy targets for predators. Parrots that feed primarily on the ground in dry grasslands, such as budgies, cockatiels, and lovebirds will be more apt to bathe in a shallow dish of water placed at the bottom of the cage. Birds that feed primarily in the treetops, such as Amazons, macaws, and conures, may respond better to a simulated rain shower, which is how they would receive a bath in the wild.
Bob and Liz Johnson know about bath time better than most bird owners. They live with over one hundred macaws and a handful of cockatoos, African greys, lories, and conures in a sub-tropical rainforest they built themselves to house abused and abandoned birds. Bath time for the Johnson’s flock comes mainly during the wet season.
“Our birds bathe in the rain,” said the Johnsons. “Some people recommend bathing them every day, even twice a day. We see them in a natural situation and they don’t bathe every day. The first time it rains after it hasn’t rained in a while, they go crazy and get drenched. If it rains the next day they hide under the shelter. In a natural setting, given the choice, they don’t bathe every day. In a drier climate, or indoors, it makes sense to mist them every day. It depends on the weather.”
Actual rain might be an ideal bath for most birds, but it’s not ideal for most bird owners—even the weatherman can’t accurately predict rain, and it might be cold or dangerous to allow your bird to bathe in it. A simulated rain shower will have to do. Using a mister, spray bottle, or hose, aim a light flow of water up and over your bird’s head. Make sure there’s ample room on the perch for your bird to step out of the shower should it want to. Drenching your bird to the skin once a week is ideal. If your bird likes bathing, you can offer a bath frequently, but don’t force it. Remember, always avoid spraying directly into the eyes and don’t continue to spray a terrified bird.
The Johnsons have also found that simply hearing the sound of rain compels some birds to bathe. The handicapped birds that don’t live in the rainforest bathe in their water dishes when it rains and even when Liz runs the blender! The Johnsons suggest that the noise of running water might help a reluctant bather to take the plunge.
Bathing Basics
Bathe a bird only in warm weather or when it will have ample time to dry in a warm place. Bathe in the morning or afternoon so that your bird doesn’t go to sleep wet. Blow-drying is possible, but not recommended—it can cause fright and overheating.
Use only warm, plain, clean water for bathing. Some people use commercial bathing products, but these can cause eye irritation and have added scent that your bird doesn’t need—healthy birds do not have a foul odor (please excuse the pun). For an added health benefit, add a few drops of colloidal silver to the bath water, as the Johnsons do; silver is a natural antibacterial agent and does not irritate the eyes—the pioneers put silver coins in their milk and water canteens to keep the liquid fresh. Some people add drops of aloe or glycerin to the water when they plan on showing a bird in a bird show. These items make the feathers very shiny, but prolonged use is not recommended.
Cockatiels, cockatoos, and African greys have a fine powder that comes from the powder-down feathers growing close to their skin. This powder serves as a natural bath to keep the feathers clean, but also serves to create allergies in their owners. You may find that no matter how much water you spray on one of these birds, it simply doesn’t get wet—the water rolls right off. You might have to try harder to get a reluctant powdery bird to bathe, but the payoff is worth the work.
Grooming the Feathers
Birds groom their feathers by “preening” them. Each feather is made from thin strands that “zip up” to form the feather. Each feather has a distinct place and function. The bird must make sure that every feather is properly zipped and in place so that it can fly and regulate its body temperature. You don’t have to worry about this minuscule grooming—a healthy bird will do it on its own.
Birds that live together will preen each other—this is called “allopreening.” Birds in pairs groom hard to reach places, such as the top of the head. If you are your bird’s only buddy, then you can help to remove the feather sheathes that emerge on his head during molting, but be careful because removing them too forcefully can hurt. Simply rub a fingernail over the sheath and it should begin to come off if it’s ready—if not, your bird will let you know with a little nip!
Clipping the Wings
Wing clipping is the act of cutting the first seven to ten flight feathers on a bird’s wings to disable it from flying. There are two camps on this issue: one camp that opposes the practice and one that endorses it. Some say that birds are meant to fly and are at a disadvantage in many ways when the wings are clipped. The other camp asserts that a flighted bird living in the average household is in jeopardy from the many dangers lurking within ordinary things, like ceiling fans and open windows.
Both sides have valid points—it’s up to you whether or not you clip your bird’s wings. Most bird owners do clip, ensuring, at the very least, that they don’t lose their bird.
Wing clipping hurts just as much as a haircut hurts us—except that we don’t use our hair to move us around! It’s not a good idea to trim your bird’s wings yourself if you don’t know what you’re doing. This can lead to a poor clip and a freaked out parrot. Your avian veterinarian or local bird shop will provide this service for a small fee. Once you see it done a few times, you may feel confident enough to try it on your own.
Clipping isn’t necessarily difficult to do on your own—it’s mastering holding your bird properly that’s tricky. Two people are often better then one during the clipping procedure: one to hold the bird wrapped safely in a towel or washcloth and one to extend the wing and clip the feathers. Remember, a bird’s bones are very fragile and manhandling can be deadly. Birds have air sacs (part of the respiratory system) in some of their bones, and can die or become very ill if one of these bones breaks.
The flight feathers are the first ten long feathers at the end of the wing when you are looking at it from underneath. If you look at the wing from above you will see that these long flight feathers are covered halfway by a set of shorter feathers. The flight feathers are clipped at the point where these two feathers meet. To make a clean clip, cut each feather individually with sharp scissors—if you cut them all at once they will be uneven and pointy. A ragged clip doesn’t look nice, and the ends of the feathers can stick into the bird’s body uncomfortably and cause him to start picking and plucking.
Heavy birds, such as Amazons and African greys, need a conservative clip—you will only trim the first five to seven flights off of the wing, though this varies from bird to bird. These heavy birds need some of their flight feathers to glide to the ground should they fall, or risk breaking the breastbone or beak on a hard floor. Lighter birds, such as cockatiels and budgies, need a more drastic clip, consisting of all ten flight feathers and maybe even some of the next set of feathers toward the body on the wing, the lift feathers. Cockatiels have been known to fly with only their flight feathers clipped.
Feathers grow back with the next molt, about every six months or so, which is why it’s important to keep an eye on feather growth. Many an owner has lost a bird to the great blue yonder thinking that the bird was still clipped.
Bleeding is the one physical danger in clipping a bird’s wings, which happens when a new feather, called a blood feather, is accidentally cut. The blood feather is recognizable by the sheath surrounding it or by a reddish or dark vein in the center of the feather. If you notice bleeding, grip the wing firmly and pull the feather out of the wing in one quick motion. If you’re squeamish, put some coagulant on the wound and take your bird to the veterinarian immediately.
Trimming the Nails
Trimming the nails is a procedure done as much for the owner as for the bird. Bird’s nails are like our nails—they keep growing, and unless they are trimmed or filed, can become uncomfortable.
A long-time theory holds that wild birds’ nails are kept filed by landing on branches and other rough surfaces. According to the Johnsons, who keep their birds in an environment as close to a natural setting as possible, say that nails may become sharp for a good reason. “Many people have said that birds’ nails don't overgrow in the wild because they perch in trees with various sized branches. We have not found this to be true. Ours still become sharp. In the wild, the sharpness is an asset, because they can grip and fight better with sharp nails.”
Unfortunately, sharpness is not an asset in the average home. Overgrown nails can curl around and stab the feet, and are surely painful for the owner. Trim nails when you notice them becoming sharp. It might be necessary to hold some birds while clipping nails, but most tame birds will allow an owner to pick up a foot and snip the nails one by one. This is the preferred method. If your bird is reluctant, trim one nail a day and offer a treat each time for good behavior. You can use the same clipper you use on your own nails.
Just like us, a bird has two parts to the nail: the dead part and the living part, commonly called the quick. Trim only the dead part at the very end of the nail. The quick is where the blood flow is, and cutting into it is painful and causes bleeding. The quick easy to see in birds with light colored toes as the darker red part of the nail. You will have to be much more careful trimming dark nails where you can’t see the quick. If the nail begins to bleed, apply a coagulant and trim the other nails another day.
A concrete “grooming perch” is a fine addition to your bird’s cage, but will not do all the work of keeping the nails trimmed. Make sure you offer perches of a wide variety of materials and sizes. Sandpaper perches can trap moisture and cause foot problems, so opt for the solid concrete perch instead.
Ultimately, your bird is responsible for most of its grooming, and if it’s healthy and happy, it should be primping and preening too. Regular bathing, grooming of the wing feathers, and nail clipping are all you have to do to keep your bird well groomed and gorgeous. Shiny, tight feathers, healthy feet, and a properly grown beak are the result of an all-around healthy bird eating a nutritious diet and living in the proper housing. Think of grooming using the chicken and the egg paradox—keeping your bird well groomed helps to keep it healthy, and keeping your bird healthy helps to keep it well groomed. Voila! A pretty bird.
Grooming Warning Signs
1. If your bird’s toenails are drastically overgrown and curling under, seek veterinary advice. This could be a sign of mites, foot disease, or nutritional disorders.
2. If your bird’s beak is wildly overgrown and is curling in on itself, or is strange looking and bumpy, visit your avian veterinarian right away. This could be a sign of mites or a nutritional disorder.
3. If your bird is “over grooming,” working its feathers so much that it’s chewing them and/
4. If you notice bald patches on your bird where there were formerly feathers, make a veterinary appointment right away. The exception is breeding females who may pluck out a “brooding patch” on the chest to keep her eggs warm.
5. Molting, or the changing of feathers, happens about twice a year. You will notice feathers in and around your bird’s cage. This is normal. If you notice the molt going on for longer than a few months, seek a doctor’s advice.
6. If your bird is drastically changing color—say, from lime green to dark red—and it’s not a result of maturing, seek veterinary help. This could be a sign of stress or malnutrition. The same holds for excessive barring on the feathers, when not associated with a normal color change.
1. If your bird’s toenails are drastically overgrown and curling under, seek veterinary advice. This could be a sign of mites, foot disease, or nutritional disorders.
2. If your bird’s beak is wildly overgrown and is curling in on itself, or is strange looking and bumpy, visit your avian veterinarian right away. This could be a sign of mites or a nutritional disorder.
3. If your bird is “over grooming,” working its feathers so much that it’s chewing them and/
4. If you notice bald patches on your bird where there were formerly feathers, make a veterinary appointment right away. The exception is breeding females who may pluck out a “brooding patch” on the chest to keep her eggs warm.
5. Molting, or the changing of feathers, happens about twice a year. You will notice feathers in and around your bird’s cage. This is normal. If you notice the molt going on for longer than a few months, seek a doctor’s advice.
6. If your bird is drastically changing color—say, from lime green to dark red—and it’s not a result of maturing, seek veterinary help. This could be a sign of stress or malnutrition. The same holds for excessive barring on the feathers, when not associated with a normal color change.
Grooming Nevers
--Never trim any other feathers than ½ of the flight feather on the wing. Never trim the tail or body feathers. Birds use these feathers for balance and body temperature regulation.
--Never pull your bird’s feathers out in lieu of trimming them. There are occasions where feathers may need to be pulled, but not as a substitute for clipping.
--Never trim the wing feathers on a finch, canary, robin, quail, or other similar birds.
--Never try to groom the beak. Only your avian veterinarian should do this. You can damage your bird for life if you make a mistake.
--Never restrain a bird forcefully. Gentle tactics result in a happier bird. If you have to groom over several days to save your bird from stress, do so.
--Never bathe your bird in cold weather when there’s no warm place to dry.
--Never spray commercial bathing solutions into your bird’s face.
--Never soak a bird that doesn’t want to bathe. If water frightens your bird, use gentle tactics to get him used to the bath, not trial by fire.
--Never bathe your bird like you would a dog, in a tub or sink full of soapy water. Do this only if your bird comes in contact with oil (which also requires a veterinary visit).
-- Never try to paint your bird’s toenails—not only is the paint a potential toxin, your bird may not like your color choice!
--Never trim any other feathers than ½ of the flight feather on the wing. Never trim the tail or body feathers. Birds use these feathers for balance and body temperature regulation.
--Never pull your bird’s feathers out in lieu of trimming them. There are occasions where feathers may need to be pulled, but not as a substitute for clipping.
--Never trim the wing feathers on a finch, canary, robin, quail, or other similar birds.
--Never try to groom the beak. Only your avian veterinarian should do this. You can damage your bird for life if you make a mistake.
--Never restrain a bird forcefully. Gentle tactics result in a happier bird. If you have to groom over several days to save your bird from stress, do so.
--Never bathe your bird in cold weather when there’s no warm place to dry.
--Never spray commercial bathing solutions into your bird’s face.
--Never soak a bird that doesn’t want to bathe. If water frightens your bird, use gentle tactics to get him used to the bath, not trial by fire.
--Never bathe your bird like you would a dog, in a tub or sink full of soapy water. Do this only if your bird comes in contact with oil (which also requires a veterinary visit).
-- Never try to paint your bird’s toenails—not only is the paint a potential toxin, your bird may not like your color choice!
A Note On Grooming the Beak
Don’t do it. Grooming the beak is best left to your avian veterinarian. Sometimes a bird’s beak will become misaligned, overgrown, or cracked, and will need to be fixed—but not by you. Trying to groom the beak when you don’t know what you’re doing can lead to serious injury for your bird.
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How do I know when my bird is sick?
How do I know when my bird is sick?
Tail bobbing, sitting "down on the perch" (crouching over its feet), and sitting on the floor of the cage.
Sneezing, clicking respiration (cough), brown-stained feathers above the nostrils (runny nose), or breathing difficulty occurs.
A change in or loss of voice or song is apparent.
Your cockatiel's behavior changes; it becomes sleepy (eyes closing), less active, and withdrawn.
There is a change in appetite. Loss of appetite or increase appetite.
Your bird drinks more water than normal.
Droppings become loose or change in color.
The number of droppings decreases. Count the number of droppings daily when changing the cage. Fewer droppings may indicate that your cockatiel is not eating well.
Your bird "fluffs up."
Cockatiels: 10 Things You Should Know
Learn everything you need to know about cockatiels, from cockatiel dust to cockatiel night frights.
These days, there’s plenty of great parrot advice floating around, and though much of it applies to the cockatiel, any cockatiel owner will tell you that her bird is special. That attitude might seem biased, but it’s true. The cockatiel requires some special considerations that new owners should know in order to best care for these unique birds.
1) Cockatiel DustThe cockatiel is one of three commonly kept parrots that create an abundance of bird dust. The other dust culprits are the cockatiel’s close cousin, the cockatoo, and theAfrican grey parrot. You might notice a layer of fine, white dust covering pretty much everything near your cockatiel’s cage, especially objects that draw dust with static, like the television. This dust comes from white powder-down feathers that grow close to the bird’s skin. These feathers emerge among the down feathers, and both are used to help insulate the bird. What’s unique about the powder down feathers is that the tips crumble into a fine dust as the bird preens, spreading the powder throughout the feathers and helping to waterproof the bird.
The dust isn’t a problem for most people, but it can create respiratory issues and even aggravate asthma for others. Cockatiels can cause allergic reactions in other pet birds kept in close proximity; macaws seem to be especially affected by dustier bird species.
Bathing your cockatiel frequently helps reduce feather dust, and placing a HEPA filternear the cage will polish the air and cut down the possibility of respiratory issues. I have had many cockatiels over the years, and I never so much as sneezed from the dust. And I’m not a compulsive duster.
2) Egg-Laying CockatielsMost hens have the singular mindset to make more cockatiels, even if there’s no male around. Frequent egg laying is a problem in cockatiels, and though egg laying is biologically innate, many female cockatiels will lay way too many eggs in short succession, causing potential health issues, including egg binding, paralysis, and weakening of the bones.
Just because she’s laying eggs does not mean that your cockatiel needs or wants a mate or to have babies. It means that her body has been sent external signals that it’s time to nest, and she can’t help her instincts. Usually, a cockatiel will come into mating condition when the light gets longer in the spring. An abundance of food and water also prompts a cockatiel to want to set up house. Since you’re not going to restrict your bird’s food and water, restrict the light your hen receives if she persists in laying eggs. Use sun lamps and/or a cage cover to allow no more than 10 hours of sunlight a day until her hormones calm down and she stops nesting.
If your bird is laying and sitting on eggs, allow her to have them for a few days, and then remove them. It’s not necessary to replace the eggs with plastic eggs, as many canary breeders do. This will only prolong her sitting on them. Nesting is very stressful for a female cockatiel without a male. Most pairs take turns sitting on the eggs, so if she’s alone, she might forgo the food and water dish in order to protect her eggs, even if they’ll never hatch.
If you have a pair of cockatiels and your hen is laying an abundance of eggs, remove any perceived nesting areas and you may have to move the male to another room temporarily if egg laying becomes a real problem. Consult your avian veterinarian for more advice on this issue.
3) Cockatiels Can Be Seed JunkiesAn all-seed diet greatly increases disease in most parrots and decreases lifespan significantly. But what do we feed a bird whose natural diet is mainly seeds? The cockatiel uses the same natural habitat as the Australian grass parakeets, and the foods it eats are similar, although the cockatiel has also been seen feeding on vegetation and insects. Also, the wild cockatiel’s diet consists of both young and mature seeds of all varieties, even seed crops, much to the chagrin of farmers.
There’s no way to mimic the cockatiel’s wild habitat in the average household. The wild cockatiel eats far more than a pet cockatiel, but it also exercises far more as well. It also doesn’t have a shot at living as long as your cockatiel. So, it’s best to feed your cockatielaccording to the research and advice that we use for all parrots; variety is key. Some seed is fine, but supplement it with pellets, cooked diets, nutritious vegetables and fruit. Even though your cockatiel might love seeds, don’t make it the only item in your bird’s dish.
4) Night Frights & Cockatiels
It’s the middle of the night and suddenly you’re woken from a deep sleep by the sound of thrashing and clanging — scary! You know it’s probably not an intruder; it’s your cockatiel having "night frights,” also called "night thrashing.” Cockatiels are notorious for this behavior. Something in the darkness frightens the bird; perhaps a noise, lights or shadows; and the bird tries to take off to protect itself and thrashes around its cage in a panic. It’s not unusual for a bird to harm itself this way, usually an injuring an eye, leg or breaking feathers.
To prevent or reduce the frequency of night frights, use a night light in the bird’s room, though some birds do better covered in complete darkness. You’ll have to evaluate your bird’s individual preferences after the night frights occur. Try to eliminate the trigger for the night frights. Perhaps your pet cat is stalking the birds at night, or headlights shine randomly into the window as cars pass, scaring the bird. If your bird still thrashes at night, consider using a night-time cage without a perch or toys, and line it with towels.
5) Respiratory SystemAll parrots have a sensitive respiratory system, but the athletic cockatiel is even more sensitive than most. This bird has a very light body for its size, and succumbs to fumes easily. Keep your bird's air toxin-free, and keep them well away from fumes from non-stick coating, candles, air fresheners and aerosol sprays.
6) Special Trims For CockatielsThe cockatiel is a light bird, so it needs a less-conservative wing trim than heavier parrots. The typical wing-feather trim involves trimming the ends of the first five or seven flight feathers. The cockatiel, however, needs all of the flight feathers trimmed and even a few of the lift feathers. A cockatiel with just a few flight feathers trimmed can fly like the wind!
7) Good Housemates For CockatielsThe cockatiel is well suited for aviary life. This bird is an agile flyer and appreciates being allowed to take advantage of this natural attribute. It also will appreciate being outdoors in good weather, soaking up the sunshine. Since it is a fairly docile bird, it does well in a large aviary with other docile birds, such as budgies, some species of grass parakeetsand some varieties finches. Do not house cockatiels with lovebirds or larger parrots; the cockatiel is unable to defend itself against these more aggressive birds.
8) Cockatiel: Long Tail, Big Bird CageThe cockatiel, with its long tail, needs a larger bird cage than a similar-sized bird with a shorter tail; otherwise its tail will rake against the bars and dip into the water cup, making it perpetually ratty.
Cockatiels also need to exercise, or they risk becoming "perch potatoes.” An overweight cockatiel can develop fatty tumors, gout, heart disease and general illness. Better to allow your cockatiel daily exercise than to spend a ton of cash at the vet’s office.
9) Expressive Crests On CockatielsThe cockatiel is the only small parrot with a head crest. The crest raises and lowers according to the bird’s mood. As you get to know your bird, you’ll come to understand what each crest position means. When the crest is raised to full height, it usually means that the bird is excited, fearful or curious. A lowered crest, with just the tip of it sticking up, indicated that the bird is content. Subtle differences in crest positions can signal an entirely different mood. For instance, an angry ’tiel might hold its crest tightly against its head, which is often accompanied with a hunched back.
The cockatiel is also one of the only small parrots that hisses and "spits” when afraid or behaving aggressively. Your ‘tiel is saying "Back off.”
10) Define Noisy With Cockatiels
Many people get cockatiels because they aren’t "loud.” Well, volume is subjective, and there are plenty of cockatiel owners with neighbors who would argue otherwise. Though the cockatiel isn’t particularly loud, it’s definitely persistent in its vocalizations. I once had an African grey that learned the cockatiel call in his previous home and performed it constantly at 10 times the volume; the worst of both worlds! Don’t get a cockatiel because you think it will be a quieter parrot. Get one because you like what the bird offers; a fun personality and a docile and quirky nature.
The dust isn’t a problem for most people, but it can create respiratory issues and even aggravate asthma for others. Cockatiels can cause allergic reactions in other pet birds kept in close proximity; macaws seem to be especially affected by dustier bird species.
Bathing your cockatiel frequently helps reduce feather dust, and placing a HEPA filternear the cage will polish the air and cut down the possibility of respiratory issues. I have had many cockatiels over the years, and I never so much as sneezed from the dust. And I’m not a compulsive duster.
2) Egg-Laying CockatielsMost hens have the singular mindset to make more cockatiels, even if there’s no male around. Frequent egg laying is a problem in cockatiels, and though egg laying is biologically innate, many female cockatiels will lay way too many eggs in short succession, causing potential health issues, including egg binding, paralysis, and weakening of the bones.
Just because she’s laying eggs does not mean that your cockatiel needs or wants a mate or to have babies. It means that her body has been sent external signals that it’s time to nest, and she can’t help her instincts. Usually, a cockatiel will come into mating condition when the light gets longer in the spring. An abundance of food and water also prompts a cockatiel to want to set up house. Since you’re not going to restrict your bird’s food and water, restrict the light your hen receives if she persists in laying eggs. Use sun lamps and/or a cage cover to allow no more than 10 hours of sunlight a day until her hormones calm down and she stops nesting.
If your bird is laying and sitting on eggs, allow her to have them for a few days, and then remove them. It’s not necessary to replace the eggs with plastic eggs, as many canary breeders do. This will only prolong her sitting on them. Nesting is very stressful for a female cockatiel without a male. Most pairs take turns sitting on the eggs, so if she’s alone, she might forgo the food and water dish in order to protect her eggs, even if they’ll never hatch.
If you have a pair of cockatiels and your hen is laying an abundance of eggs, remove any perceived nesting areas and you may have to move the male to another room temporarily if egg laying becomes a real problem. Consult your avian veterinarian for more advice on this issue.
3) Cockatiels Can Be Seed JunkiesAn all-seed diet greatly increases disease in most parrots and decreases lifespan significantly. But what do we feed a bird whose natural diet is mainly seeds? The cockatiel uses the same natural habitat as the Australian grass parakeets, and the foods it eats are similar, although the cockatiel has also been seen feeding on vegetation and insects. Also, the wild cockatiel’s diet consists of both young and mature seeds of all varieties, even seed crops, much to the chagrin of farmers.
There’s no way to mimic the cockatiel’s wild habitat in the average household. The wild cockatiel eats far more than a pet cockatiel, but it also exercises far more as well. It also doesn’t have a shot at living as long as your cockatiel. So, it’s best to feed your cockatielaccording to the research and advice that we use for all parrots; variety is key. Some seed is fine, but supplement it with pellets, cooked diets, nutritious vegetables and fruit. Even though your cockatiel might love seeds, don’t make it the only item in your bird’s dish.
4) Night Frights & Cockatiels
It’s the middle of the night and suddenly you’re woken from a deep sleep by the sound of thrashing and clanging — scary! You know it’s probably not an intruder; it’s your cockatiel having "night frights,” also called "night thrashing.” Cockatiels are notorious for this behavior. Something in the darkness frightens the bird; perhaps a noise, lights or shadows; and the bird tries to take off to protect itself and thrashes around its cage in a panic. It’s not unusual for a bird to harm itself this way, usually an injuring an eye, leg or breaking feathers.
To prevent or reduce the frequency of night frights, use a night light in the bird’s room, though some birds do better covered in complete darkness. You’ll have to evaluate your bird’s individual preferences after the night frights occur. Try to eliminate the trigger for the night frights. Perhaps your pet cat is stalking the birds at night, or headlights shine randomly into the window as cars pass, scaring the bird. If your bird still thrashes at night, consider using a night-time cage without a perch or toys, and line it with towels.
5) Respiratory SystemAll parrots have a sensitive respiratory system, but the athletic cockatiel is even more sensitive than most. This bird has a very light body for its size, and succumbs to fumes easily. Keep your bird's air toxin-free, and keep them well away from fumes from non-stick coating, candles, air fresheners and aerosol sprays.
6) Special Trims For CockatielsThe cockatiel is a light bird, so it needs a less-conservative wing trim than heavier parrots. The typical wing-feather trim involves trimming the ends of the first five or seven flight feathers. The cockatiel, however, needs all of the flight feathers trimmed and even a few of the lift feathers. A cockatiel with just a few flight feathers trimmed can fly like the wind!
7) Good Housemates For CockatielsThe cockatiel is well suited for aviary life. This bird is an agile flyer and appreciates being allowed to take advantage of this natural attribute. It also will appreciate being outdoors in good weather, soaking up the sunshine. Since it is a fairly docile bird, it does well in a large aviary with other docile birds, such as budgies, some species of grass parakeetsand some varieties finches. Do not house cockatiels with lovebirds or larger parrots; the cockatiel is unable to defend itself against these more aggressive birds.
8) Cockatiel: Long Tail, Big Bird CageThe cockatiel, with its long tail, needs a larger bird cage than a similar-sized bird with a shorter tail; otherwise its tail will rake against the bars and dip into the water cup, making it perpetually ratty.
Cockatiels also need to exercise, or they risk becoming "perch potatoes.” An overweight cockatiel can develop fatty tumors, gout, heart disease and general illness. Better to allow your cockatiel daily exercise than to spend a ton of cash at the vet’s office.
9) Expressive Crests On CockatielsThe cockatiel is the only small parrot with a head crest. The crest raises and lowers according to the bird’s mood. As you get to know your bird, you’ll come to understand what each crest position means. When the crest is raised to full height, it usually means that the bird is excited, fearful or curious. A lowered crest, with just the tip of it sticking up, indicated that the bird is content. Subtle differences in crest positions can signal an entirely different mood. For instance, an angry ’tiel might hold its crest tightly against its head, which is often accompanied with a hunched back.
The cockatiel is also one of the only small parrots that hisses and "spits” when afraid or behaving aggressively. Your ‘tiel is saying "Back off.”
10) Define Noisy With Cockatiels
Many people get cockatiels because they aren’t "loud.” Well, volume is subjective, and there are plenty of cockatiel owners with neighbors who would argue otherwise. Though the cockatiel isn’t particularly loud, it’s definitely persistent in its vocalizations. I once had an African grey that learned the cockatiel call in his previous home and performed it constantly at 10 times the volume; the worst of both worlds! Don’t get a cockatiel because you think it will be a quieter parrot. Get one because you like what the bird offers; a fun personality and a docile and quirky nature.
Interesting Facts About Cockatiels
• The Cockatiel was first discovered in Australia in 1770. It did not become popular until the Australian gold rush in the nineteen hundreds.
• The fumes emitted from cookware coated with Teflon can kill your Cockatiel.
• Cockatiel seeds, how do you know if they are good and nutritious?
Sprout them! If less than 70% of the seeds sprout, they have died and also its nutritional value. Place some cockatiel seeds on a container covered with a paper towel. Soak the seeds with water. Make sure you keep the seed moist for the next few days by just spraying them, they should sprout in about 4 to 5 days. You can wash them and can give them to your tiel, they are very good and nutritious.
Sprout them! If less than 70% of the seeds sprout, they have died and also its nutritional value. Place some cockatiel seeds on a container covered with a paper towel. Soak the seeds with water. Make sure you keep the seed moist for the next few days by just spraying them, they should sprout in about 4 to 5 days. You can wash them and can give them to your tiel, they are very good and nutritious.
• Do you know what a Galatiel is? Is when a cockatiel and an Australian bird named Gallah have chicks together
• In the wild, you'll see immense flocks of cockatiels circling the sky in search of large bodies of water where they can rest, breed, and escape from the Australian heat.
• Cockatiels are very sociable birds and will get depressed if they are left alone for long periods of time. They may hit their heads against cages, pull their feathers, refuse to eat, or become angry. It’s best to get a pair of cockatiels if you know you’ll be out of your house for long periods of time.
• Male cockatiels are better are talking and whistling than female cockatiels. In the wild the male cockatiel use sounds to attract females.
• Cockatiels can be considered as the most widely kept parrot other than parakeet or budgie.
• Hand fed cockatiels are more likely to talk than the parent fed ones.
• If having a talking bird is your prime goal you might consider a larger parrot before getting a cockatiel. It's easier for a cockatiel to whistle than to talk.
• The cockatiel life span can reach up to 22 years, though the standard is 15 years. This life span is based on proper care, nutrition and environment where your tiel lives.
• Drafty areas in your house can be very bad for your cockatiel, it can even kill them by making your tiel very sick. Don't place the cage anywhere there might be a direct or indirect draft like air conditioning vents. If you want to find out if there is a draft you are not aware of, place a candle in the area you are thinking of placing the cage. It if flickers, there's a draft there, so find another area for your cage.
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