Nassaryab Sharwani A.N budgerigar
Pied Crest Baby cock 2015 A.N 55 Budgerigar
Friday 19 June 2015
Nassaryab Sharwani A.N budgerigar
Sunday 14 June 2015
Facts About African Grey Parrots
1. There is more that one type of African Grey parrot.
While all types of African Grey parrots look similar, there are actually two distinct types and a couple of lesser known subspecies of this beloved bird. The most popular and common is the Congo African Grey. The Congo African Grey is the largest of the African Grey parrots, sporting a lighter grey color in its plumage, and a solid black beak. The second most common type is the Timneh African Grey, which was recognized as a species in and of itself in 2012. The Timneh African Grey is slightly smaller than the Congo, and its feathers are darker in color. Another defining characteristic of the Timneh Grey is that it has a horn colored upper mandible instead of a black one. Despite their differences, both of these types of African Grey parrots make excellent pets, and both are equally intelligent.
2. African Greys are known to be among the most intelligent bird species.
Besides being one of the most popular pet bird species, African Grey Parrots are also one of the most intelligent. In recent years, much research has been done on the mental capacity of African Grey parrots by scientists around the world. The most famous instance of this is the work that Dr. Irene Pepperberg conducted with her famous African Grey, Alex. Using Alex and other African Greys in research trials focusing on communication, she was able to show that not only can African Grey parrots learn an incredible amount of human words, they can learn to use them in context to communicate with their owners. It has been said that these impressive birds have the mental and emotional capacities of a 5 year old human child.
3. Caring for an African Grey can be hard work.
Because they are so intelligent, African Grey Parrots form very strong bonds with their owners, and can be quite emotionally needy. Due to this trait, they do best with owners who can devote ample time to handling and socializing with them on a daily basis. In addition, African Grey parrots need a lot of exercise in order to keep their strong muscles toned and maintain an adequate physical condition. This means that they must be able to spend several hours per day outside of their cages, playing in supervised, "parrot proof" areas.
4. African Grey parrots can live for a very long time.
African Grey parrots have been known to live for up to 80 years in captivity, so it's imperative that those who adopt them can commit to a lifetime of living with a bird. African Grey parrots are too emotionally sensitive to be able to handle being bounced from owner to owner, but sadly many of them do have several homes throughout their lifetimes because people rush into adopting them without fully thinking it through. You can help put an end to situations like these by helping to educate people about African Grey ownership, and by making sure that you set a good example for bird owners who might be interested in adopting such a parrot.
5. African Greys are hard to keep occupied.
Most people can relate to the difficulties of keeping a young child occupied, so it's not a stretch to say that keeping a highly intelligent bird from getting bored can be similar. African Grey parrots need plenty of mental stimulation in order to stay happy and healthy, so they must be provided with a variety of toys and other ways to exercise their minds. Otherwise, they can resort to destructive behavior and develop unpleasant habits that might require professional intervention.
Bathing Your Bird
Primping and Preening
The How-To of Grooming and Bathing Your Bird
Grooming a companion bird might seem like an absurd notion. Only poodles and longhaired cats need grooming, right? Not so. An owner that wants to keep her bird clean, safe, healthy, and companionable makes an effort to groom it.
Birds don’t need to be brushed and combed, and will certainly take offense at a little pink bow tied to the top of the head, but will appreciate a regular bath, feather grooming, and nail clipping, when necessary. These things constitute basic bird care, the same as offering proper nutrition, housing, and exercise. Maintaining your bird’s skin, feathers, and nails, goes a long way toward keeping your bird healthy.
Bath Time for Birdy!
Wild birds don’t need anyone to remind them to take a bath or groom their feathers. Just walk outside after a heavy rainfall and watch the sparrows dipping their heads in and out of puddles at the curb. Not the most sanitary bath, but a bath nonetheless.
When you say the word b-a-t-h in front of your feathered friend, does he immediately start looking for a hiding place? He’s not alone. Many companion parrots like water about as much as they like toxic fumes. This is a parrot that cringes when the spray bottle comes out, that flies off its perch and makes a beeline for the space behind the couch just as your finger triggers the first drop. It’s not that Polly doesn’t want to bathe. He might now know how.
It seems strange that a wild animal—your companion bird—doesn’t understand that a bath is fun and healthful, but it makes sense when you realize that certain bird behaviors are learned by watching other birds. Since most companion birds don’t have other feathered role models, some behaviors, perhaps even bathing, may seem as foreign as eating broccoli (another thing we’d like our birds to do!). Even if terror glints in your bird’s eye when you break out the hose, there’s a way to bathe him and still maintain his dignity—and yours.
Bathing is not just for aesthetics. Water on the skin helps to keep the amount of dander down (especially on cockatiels, cockatoos, and African greys) and adds much-needed moisture to the skin. Bathing promotes feather grooming (preening), which promotes the spreading of oil from the oil gland at the base of the tail, leading to tighter, shinier, more waterproof feathers in most species. Bathing helps a molting bird remove itchy feather sheathes, and allows breeding birds to take essential moisture back to their eggs in the nest.
Using Natural Instincts to Bathe a Dirty Birdy
Some companion birds are natural bathers, jumping in the water dish or underneath the running water in the sink at every opportunity. Presenting this bird with a special bathing dish is about all you have to do. But some birds are more reluctant, and owners of these birds often give up on proposing a bath. Don’t be daunted. Using your bird’s natural instincts may help to get him appreciating bath time.
Some wild parrots don’t often have the luxury of landing on the ground to bathe—this would make them easy targets for predators. Parrots that feed primarily on the ground in dry grasslands, such as budgies, cockatiels, and lovebirds will be more apt to bathe in a shallow dish of water placed at the bottom of the cage. Birds that feed primarily in the treetops, such as Amazons, macaws, and conures, may respond better to a simulated rain shower, which is how they would receive a bath in the wild.
Bob and Liz Johnson know about bath time better than most bird owners. They live with over one hundred macaws and a handful of cockatoos, African greys, lories, and conures in a sub-tropical rainforest they built themselves to house abused and abandoned birds. Bath time for the Johnson’s flock comes mainly during the wet season.
“Our birds bathe in the rain,” said the Johnsons. “Some people recommend bathing them every day, even twice a day. We see them in a natural situation and they don’t bathe every day. The first time it rains after it hasn’t rained in a while, they go crazy and get drenched. If it rains the next day they hide under the shelter. In a natural setting, given the choice, they don’t bathe every day. In a drier climate, or indoors, it makes sense to mist them every day. It depends on the weather.”
Actual rain might be an ideal bath for most birds, but it’s not ideal for most bird owners—even the weatherman can’t accurately predict rain, and it might be cold or dangerous to allow your bird to bathe in it. A simulated rain shower will have to do. Using a mister, spray bottle, or hose, aim a light flow of water up and over your bird’s head. Make sure there’s ample room on the perch for your bird to step out of the shower should it want to. Drenching your bird to the skin once a week is ideal. If your bird likes bathing, you can offer a bath frequently, but don’t force it. Remember, always avoid spraying directly into the eyes and don’t continue to spray a terrified bird.
The Johnsons have also found that simply hearing the sound of rain compels some birds to bathe. The handicapped birds that don’t live in the rainforest bathe in their water dishes when it rains and even when Liz runs the blender! The Johnsons suggest that the noise of running water might help a reluctant bather to take the plunge.
Bathing Basics
Bathe a bird only in warm weather or when it will have ample time to dry in a warm place. Bathe in the morning or afternoon so that your bird doesn’t go to sleep wet. Blow-drying is possible, but not recommended—it can cause fright and overheating.
Use only warm, plain, clean water for bathing. Some people use commercial bathing products, but these can cause eye irritation and have added scent that your bird doesn’t need—healthy birds do not have a foul odor (please excuse the pun). For an added health benefit, add a few drops of colloidal silver to the bath water, as the Johnsons do; silver is a natural antibacterial agent and does not irritate the eyes—the pioneers put silver coins in their milk and water canteens to keep the liquid fresh. Some people add drops of aloe or glycerin to the water when they plan on showing a bird in a bird show. These items make the feathers very shiny, but prolonged use is not recommended.
Cockatiels, cockatoos, and African greys have a fine powder that comes from the powder-down feathers growing close to their skin. This powder serves as a natural bath to keep the feathers clean, but also serves to create allergies in their owners. You may find that no matter how much water you spray on one of these birds, it simply doesn’t get wet—the water rolls right off. You might have to try harder to get a reluctant powdery bird to bathe, but the payoff is worth the work.
Grooming the Feathers
Birds groom their feathers by “preening” them. Each feather is made from thin strands that “zip up” to form the feather. Each feather has a distinct place and function. The bird must make sure that every feather is properly zipped and in place so that it can fly and regulate its body temperature. You don’t have to worry about this minuscule grooming—a healthy bird will do it on its own.
Birds that live together will preen each other—this is called “allopreening.” Birds in pairs groom hard to reach places, such as the top of the head. If you are your bird’s only buddy, then you can help to remove the feather sheathes that emerge on his head during molting, but be careful because removing them too forcefully can hurt. Simply rub a fingernail over the sheath and it should begin to come off if it’s ready—if not, your bird will let you know with a little nip!
Clipping the Wings
Wing clipping is the act of cutting the first seven to ten flight feathers on a bird’s wings to disable it from flying. There are two camps on this issue: one camp that opposes the practice and one that endorses it. Some say that birds are meant to fly and are at a disadvantage in many ways when the wings are clipped. The other camp asserts that a flighted bird living in the average household is in jeopardy from the many dangers lurking within ordinary things, like ceiling fans and open windows.
Both sides have valid points—it’s up to you whether or not you clip your bird’s wings. Most bird owners do clip, ensuring, at the very least, that they don’t lose their bird.
Wing clipping hurts just as much as a haircut hurts us—except that we don’t use our hair to move us around! It’s not a good idea to trim your bird’s wings yourself if you don’t know what you’re doing. This can lead to a poor clip and a freaked out parrot. Your avian veterinarian or local bird shop will provide this service for a small fee. Once you see it done a few times, you may feel confident enough to try it on your own.
Clipping isn’t necessarily difficult to do on your own—it’s mastering holding your bird properly that’s tricky. Two people are often better then one during the clipping procedure: one to hold the bird wrapped safely in a towel or washcloth and one to extend the wing and clip the feathers. Remember, a bird’s bones are very fragile and manhandling can be deadly. Birds have air sacs (part of the respiratory system) in some of their bones, and can die or become very ill if one of these bones breaks.
The flight feathers are the first ten long feathers at the end of the wing when you are looking at it from underneath. If you look at the wing from above you will see that these long flight feathers are covered halfway by a set of shorter feathers. The flight feathers are clipped at the point where these two feathers meet. To make a clean clip, cut each feather individually with sharp scissors—if you cut them all at once they will be uneven and pointy. A ragged clip doesn’t look nice, and the ends of the feathers can stick into the bird’s body uncomfortably and cause him to start picking and plucking.
Heavy birds, such as Amazons and African greys, need a conservative clip—you will only trim the first five to seven flights off of the wing, though this varies from bird to bird. These heavy birds need some of their flight feathers to glide to the ground should they fall, or risk breaking the breastbone or beak on a hard floor. Lighter birds, such as cockatiels and budgies, need a more drastic clip, consisting of all ten flight feathers and maybe even some of the next set of feathers toward the body on the wing, the lift feathers. Cockatiels have been known to fly with only their flight feathers clipped.
Feathers grow back with the next molt, about every six months or so, which is why it’s important to keep an eye on feather growth. Many an owner has lost a bird to the great blue yonder thinking that the bird was still clipped.
Bleeding is the one physical danger in clipping a bird’s wings, which happens when a new feather, called a blood feather, is accidentally cut. The blood feather is recognizable by the sheath surrounding it or by a reddish or dark vein in the center of the feather. If you notice bleeding, grip the wing firmly and pull the feather out of the wing in one quick motion. If you’re squeamish, put some coagulant on the wound and take your bird to the veterinarian immediately.
Trimming the Nails
Trimming the nails is a procedure done as much for the owner as for the bird. Bird’s nails are like our nails—they keep growing, and unless they are trimmed or filed, can become uncomfortable.
A long-time theory holds that wild birds’ nails are kept filed by landing on branches and other rough surfaces. According to the Johnsons, who keep their birds in an environment as close to a natural setting as possible, say that nails may become sharp for a good reason. “Many people have said that birds’ nails don't overgrow in the wild because they perch in trees with various sized branches. We have not found this to be true. Ours still become sharp. In the wild, the sharpness is an asset, because they can grip and fight better with sharp nails.”
Unfortunately, sharpness is not an asset in the average home. Overgrown nails can curl around and stab the feet, and are surely painful for the owner. Trim nails when you notice them becoming sharp. It might be necessary to hold some birds while clipping nails, but most tame birds will allow an owner to pick up a foot and snip the nails one by one. This is the preferred method. If your bird is reluctant, trim one nail a day and offer a treat each time for good behavior. You can use the same clipper you use on your own nails.
Just like us, a bird has two parts to the nail: the dead part and the living part, commonly called the quick. Trim only the dead part at the very end of the nail. The quick is where the blood flow is, and cutting into it is painful and causes bleeding. The quick easy to see in birds with light colored toes as the darker red part of the nail. You will have to be much more careful trimming dark nails where you can’t see the quick. If the nail begins to bleed, apply a coagulant and trim the other nails another day.
A concrete “grooming perch” is a fine addition to your bird’s cage, but will not do all the work of keeping the nails trimmed. Make sure you offer perches of a wide variety of materials and sizes. Sandpaper perches can trap moisture and cause foot problems, so opt for the solid concrete perch instead.
Ultimately, your bird is responsible for most of its grooming, and if it’s healthy and happy, it should be primping and preening too. Regular bathing, grooming of the wing feathers, and nail clipping are all you have to do to keep your bird well groomed and gorgeous. Shiny, tight feathers, healthy feet, and a properly grown beak are the result of an all-around healthy bird eating a nutritious diet and living in the proper housing. Think of grooming using the chicken and the egg paradox—keeping your bird well groomed helps to keep it healthy, and keeping your bird healthy helps to keep it well groomed. Voila! A pretty bird.
Birds don’t need to be brushed and combed, and will certainly take offense at a little pink bow tied to the top of the head, but will appreciate a regular bath, feather grooming, and nail clipping, when necessary. These things constitute basic bird care, the same as offering proper nutrition, housing, and exercise. Maintaining your bird’s skin, feathers, and nails, goes a long way toward keeping your bird healthy.
Bath Time for Birdy!
Wild birds don’t need anyone to remind them to take a bath or groom their feathers. Just walk outside after a heavy rainfall and watch the sparrows dipping their heads in and out of puddles at the curb. Not the most sanitary bath, but a bath nonetheless.
When you say the word b-a-t-h in front of your feathered friend, does he immediately start looking for a hiding place? He’s not alone. Many companion parrots like water about as much as they like toxic fumes. This is a parrot that cringes when the spray bottle comes out, that flies off its perch and makes a beeline for the space behind the couch just as your finger triggers the first drop. It’s not that Polly doesn’t want to bathe. He might now know how.
It seems strange that a wild animal—your companion bird—doesn’t understand that a bath is fun and healthful, but it makes sense when you realize that certain bird behaviors are learned by watching other birds. Since most companion birds don’t have other feathered role models, some behaviors, perhaps even bathing, may seem as foreign as eating broccoli (another thing we’d like our birds to do!). Even if terror glints in your bird’s eye when you break out the hose, there’s a way to bathe him and still maintain his dignity—and yours.
Bathing is not just for aesthetics. Water on the skin helps to keep the amount of dander down (especially on cockatiels, cockatoos, and African greys) and adds much-needed moisture to the skin. Bathing promotes feather grooming (preening), which promotes the spreading of oil from the oil gland at the base of the tail, leading to tighter, shinier, more waterproof feathers in most species. Bathing helps a molting bird remove itchy feather sheathes, and allows breeding birds to take essential moisture back to their eggs in the nest.
Using Natural Instincts to Bathe a Dirty Birdy
Some companion birds are natural bathers, jumping in the water dish or underneath the running water in the sink at every opportunity. Presenting this bird with a special bathing dish is about all you have to do. But some birds are more reluctant, and owners of these birds often give up on proposing a bath. Don’t be daunted. Using your bird’s natural instincts may help to get him appreciating bath time.
Some wild parrots don’t often have the luxury of landing on the ground to bathe—this would make them easy targets for predators. Parrots that feed primarily on the ground in dry grasslands, such as budgies, cockatiels, and lovebirds will be more apt to bathe in a shallow dish of water placed at the bottom of the cage. Birds that feed primarily in the treetops, such as Amazons, macaws, and conures, may respond better to a simulated rain shower, which is how they would receive a bath in the wild.
Bob and Liz Johnson know about bath time better than most bird owners. They live with over one hundred macaws and a handful of cockatoos, African greys, lories, and conures in a sub-tropical rainforest they built themselves to house abused and abandoned birds. Bath time for the Johnson’s flock comes mainly during the wet season.
“Our birds bathe in the rain,” said the Johnsons. “Some people recommend bathing them every day, even twice a day. We see them in a natural situation and they don’t bathe every day. The first time it rains after it hasn’t rained in a while, they go crazy and get drenched. If it rains the next day they hide under the shelter. In a natural setting, given the choice, they don’t bathe every day. In a drier climate, or indoors, it makes sense to mist them every day. It depends on the weather.”
Actual rain might be an ideal bath for most birds, but it’s not ideal for most bird owners—even the weatherman can’t accurately predict rain, and it might be cold or dangerous to allow your bird to bathe in it. A simulated rain shower will have to do. Using a mister, spray bottle, or hose, aim a light flow of water up and over your bird’s head. Make sure there’s ample room on the perch for your bird to step out of the shower should it want to. Drenching your bird to the skin once a week is ideal. If your bird likes bathing, you can offer a bath frequently, but don’t force it. Remember, always avoid spraying directly into the eyes and don’t continue to spray a terrified bird.
The Johnsons have also found that simply hearing the sound of rain compels some birds to bathe. The handicapped birds that don’t live in the rainforest bathe in their water dishes when it rains and even when Liz runs the blender! The Johnsons suggest that the noise of running water might help a reluctant bather to take the plunge.
Bathing Basics
Bathe a bird only in warm weather or when it will have ample time to dry in a warm place. Bathe in the morning or afternoon so that your bird doesn’t go to sleep wet. Blow-drying is possible, but not recommended—it can cause fright and overheating.
Use only warm, plain, clean water for bathing. Some people use commercial bathing products, but these can cause eye irritation and have added scent that your bird doesn’t need—healthy birds do not have a foul odor (please excuse the pun). For an added health benefit, add a few drops of colloidal silver to the bath water, as the Johnsons do; silver is a natural antibacterial agent and does not irritate the eyes—the pioneers put silver coins in their milk and water canteens to keep the liquid fresh. Some people add drops of aloe or glycerin to the water when they plan on showing a bird in a bird show. These items make the feathers very shiny, but prolonged use is not recommended.
Cockatiels, cockatoos, and African greys have a fine powder that comes from the powder-down feathers growing close to their skin. This powder serves as a natural bath to keep the feathers clean, but also serves to create allergies in their owners. You may find that no matter how much water you spray on one of these birds, it simply doesn’t get wet—the water rolls right off. You might have to try harder to get a reluctant powdery bird to bathe, but the payoff is worth the work.
Grooming the Feathers
Birds groom their feathers by “preening” them. Each feather is made from thin strands that “zip up” to form the feather. Each feather has a distinct place and function. The bird must make sure that every feather is properly zipped and in place so that it can fly and regulate its body temperature. You don’t have to worry about this minuscule grooming—a healthy bird will do it on its own.
Birds that live together will preen each other—this is called “allopreening.” Birds in pairs groom hard to reach places, such as the top of the head. If you are your bird’s only buddy, then you can help to remove the feather sheathes that emerge on his head during molting, but be careful because removing them too forcefully can hurt. Simply rub a fingernail over the sheath and it should begin to come off if it’s ready—if not, your bird will let you know with a little nip!
Clipping the Wings
Wing clipping is the act of cutting the first seven to ten flight feathers on a bird’s wings to disable it from flying. There are two camps on this issue: one camp that opposes the practice and one that endorses it. Some say that birds are meant to fly and are at a disadvantage in many ways when the wings are clipped. The other camp asserts that a flighted bird living in the average household is in jeopardy from the many dangers lurking within ordinary things, like ceiling fans and open windows.
Both sides have valid points—it’s up to you whether or not you clip your bird’s wings. Most bird owners do clip, ensuring, at the very least, that they don’t lose their bird.
Wing clipping hurts just as much as a haircut hurts us—except that we don’t use our hair to move us around! It’s not a good idea to trim your bird’s wings yourself if you don’t know what you’re doing. This can lead to a poor clip and a freaked out parrot. Your avian veterinarian or local bird shop will provide this service for a small fee. Once you see it done a few times, you may feel confident enough to try it on your own.
Clipping isn’t necessarily difficult to do on your own—it’s mastering holding your bird properly that’s tricky. Two people are often better then one during the clipping procedure: one to hold the bird wrapped safely in a towel or washcloth and one to extend the wing and clip the feathers. Remember, a bird’s bones are very fragile and manhandling can be deadly. Birds have air sacs (part of the respiratory system) in some of their bones, and can die or become very ill if one of these bones breaks.
The flight feathers are the first ten long feathers at the end of the wing when you are looking at it from underneath. If you look at the wing from above you will see that these long flight feathers are covered halfway by a set of shorter feathers. The flight feathers are clipped at the point where these two feathers meet. To make a clean clip, cut each feather individually with sharp scissors—if you cut them all at once they will be uneven and pointy. A ragged clip doesn’t look nice, and the ends of the feathers can stick into the bird’s body uncomfortably and cause him to start picking and plucking.
Heavy birds, such as Amazons and African greys, need a conservative clip—you will only trim the first five to seven flights off of the wing, though this varies from bird to bird. These heavy birds need some of their flight feathers to glide to the ground should they fall, or risk breaking the breastbone or beak on a hard floor. Lighter birds, such as cockatiels and budgies, need a more drastic clip, consisting of all ten flight feathers and maybe even some of the next set of feathers toward the body on the wing, the lift feathers. Cockatiels have been known to fly with only their flight feathers clipped.
Feathers grow back with the next molt, about every six months or so, which is why it’s important to keep an eye on feather growth. Many an owner has lost a bird to the great blue yonder thinking that the bird was still clipped.
Bleeding is the one physical danger in clipping a bird’s wings, which happens when a new feather, called a blood feather, is accidentally cut. The blood feather is recognizable by the sheath surrounding it or by a reddish or dark vein in the center of the feather. If you notice bleeding, grip the wing firmly and pull the feather out of the wing in one quick motion. If you’re squeamish, put some coagulant on the wound and take your bird to the veterinarian immediately.
Trimming the Nails
Trimming the nails is a procedure done as much for the owner as for the bird. Bird’s nails are like our nails—they keep growing, and unless they are trimmed or filed, can become uncomfortable.
A long-time theory holds that wild birds’ nails are kept filed by landing on branches and other rough surfaces. According to the Johnsons, who keep their birds in an environment as close to a natural setting as possible, say that nails may become sharp for a good reason. “Many people have said that birds’ nails don't overgrow in the wild because they perch in trees with various sized branches. We have not found this to be true. Ours still become sharp. In the wild, the sharpness is an asset, because they can grip and fight better with sharp nails.”
Unfortunately, sharpness is not an asset in the average home. Overgrown nails can curl around and stab the feet, and are surely painful for the owner. Trim nails when you notice them becoming sharp. It might be necessary to hold some birds while clipping nails, but most tame birds will allow an owner to pick up a foot and snip the nails one by one. This is the preferred method. If your bird is reluctant, trim one nail a day and offer a treat each time for good behavior. You can use the same clipper you use on your own nails.
Just like us, a bird has two parts to the nail: the dead part and the living part, commonly called the quick. Trim only the dead part at the very end of the nail. The quick is where the blood flow is, and cutting into it is painful and causes bleeding. The quick easy to see in birds with light colored toes as the darker red part of the nail. You will have to be much more careful trimming dark nails where you can’t see the quick. If the nail begins to bleed, apply a coagulant and trim the other nails another day.
A concrete “grooming perch” is a fine addition to your bird’s cage, but will not do all the work of keeping the nails trimmed. Make sure you offer perches of a wide variety of materials and sizes. Sandpaper perches can trap moisture and cause foot problems, so opt for the solid concrete perch instead.
Ultimately, your bird is responsible for most of its grooming, and if it’s healthy and happy, it should be primping and preening too. Regular bathing, grooming of the wing feathers, and nail clipping are all you have to do to keep your bird well groomed and gorgeous. Shiny, tight feathers, healthy feet, and a properly grown beak are the result of an all-around healthy bird eating a nutritious diet and living in the proper housing. Think of grooming using the chicken and the egg paradox—keeping your bird well groomed helps to keep it healthy, and keeping your bird healthy helps to keep it well groomed. Voila! A pretty bird.
Grooming Warning Signs
1. If your bird’s toenails are drastically overgrown and curling under, seek veterinary advice. This could be a sign of mites, foot disease, or nutritional disorders.
2. If your bird’s beak is wildly overgrown and is curling in on itself, or is strange looking and bumpy, visit your avian veterinarian right away. This could be a sign of mites or a nutritional disorder.
3. If your bird is “over grooming,” working its feathers so much that it’s chewing them and/
4. If you notice bald patches on your bird where there were formerly feathers, make a veterinary appointment right away. The exception is breeding females who may pluck out a “brooding patch” on the chest to keep her eggs warm.
5. Molting, or the changing of feathers, happens about twice a year. You will notice feathers in and around your bird’s cage. This is normal. If you notice the molt going on for longer than a few months, seek a doctor’s advice.
6. If your bird is drastically changing color—say, from lime green to dark red—and it’s not a result of maturing, seek veterinary help. This could be a sign of stress or malnutrition. The same holds for excessive barring on the feathers, when not associated with a normal color change.
1. If your bird’s toenails are drastically overgrown and curling under, seek veterinary advice. This could be a sign of mites, foot disease, or nutritional disorders.
2. If your bird’s beak is wildly overgrown and is curling in on itself, or is strange looking and bumpy, visit your avian veterinarian right away. This could be a sign of mites or a nutritional disorder.
3. If your bird is “over grooming,” working its feathers so much that it’s chewing them and/
4. If you notice bald patches on your bird where there were formerly feathers, make a veterinary appointment right away. The exception is breeding females who may pluck out a “brooding patch” on the chest to keep her eggs warm.
5. Molting, or the changing of feathers, happens about twice a year. You will notice feathers in and around your bird’s cage. This is normal. If you notice the molt going on for longer than a few months, seek a doctor’s advice.
6. If your bird is drastically changing color—say, from lime green to dark red—and it’s not a result of maturing, seek veterinary help. This could be a sign of stress or malnutrition. The same holds for excessive barring on the feathers, when not associated with a normal color change.
Grooming Nevers
--Never trim any other feathers than ½ of the flight feather on the wing. Never trim the tail or body feathers. Birds use these feathers for balance and body temperature regulation.
--Never pull your bird’s feathers out in lieu of trimming them. There are occasions where feathers may need to be pulled, but not as a substitute for clipping.
--Never trim the wing feathers on a finch, canary, robin, quail, or other similar birds.
--Never try to groom the beak. Only your avian veterinarian should do this. You can damage your bird for life if you make a mistake.
--Never restrain a bird forcefully. Gentle tactics result in a happier bird. If you have to groom over several days to save your bird from stress, do so.
--Never bathe your bird in cold weather when there’s no warm place to dry.
--Never spray commercial bathing solutions into your bird’s face.
--Never soak a bird that doesn’t want to bathe. If water frightens your bird, use gentle tactics to get him used to the bath, not trial by fire.
--Never bathe your bird like you would a dog, in a tub or sink full of soapy water. Do this only if your bird comes in contact with oil (which also requires a veterinary visit).
-- Never try to paint your bird’s toenails—not only is the paint a potential toxin, your bird may not like your color choice!
--Never trim any other feathers than ½ of the flight feather on the wing. Never trim the tail or body feathers. Birds use these feathers for balance and body temperature regulation.
--Never pull your bird’s feathers out in lieu of trimming them. There are occasions where feathers may need to be pulled, but not as a substitute for clipping.
--Never trim the wing feathers on a finch, canary, robin, quail, or other similar birds.
--Never try to groom the beak. Only your avian veterinarian should do this. You can damage your bird for life if you make a mistake.
--Never restrain a bird forcefully. Gentle tactics result in a happier bird. If you have to groom over several days to save your bird from stress, do so.
--Never bathe your bird in cold weather when there’s no warm place to dry.
--Never spray commercial bathing solutions into your bird’s face.
--Never soak a bird that doesn’t want to bathe. If water frightens your bird, use gentle tactics to get him used to the bath, not trial by fire.
--Never bathe your bird like you would a dog, in a tub or sink full of soapy water. Do this only if your bird comes in contact with oil (which also requires a veterinary visit).
-- Never try to paint your bird’s toenails—not only is the paint a potential toxin, your bird may not like your color choice!
A Note On Grooming the Beak
Don’t do it. Grooming the beak is best left to your avian veterinarian. Sometimes a bird’s beak will become misaligned, overgrown, or cracked, and will need to be fixed—but not by you. Trying to groom the beak when you don’t know what you’re doing can lead to serious injury for your bird.
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How do I know when my bird is sick?
How do I know when my bird is sick?
Tail bobbing, sitting "down on the perch" (crouching over its feet), and sitting on the floor of the cage.
Sneezing, clicking respiration (cough), brown-stained feathers above the nostrils (runny nose), or breathing difficulty occurs.
A change in or loss of voice or song is apparent.
Your cockatiel's behavior changes; it becomes sleepy (eyes closing), less active, and withdrawn.
There is a change in appetite. Loss of appetite or increase appetite.
Your bird drinks more water than normal.
Droppings become loose or change in color.
The number of droppings decreases. Count the number of droppings daily when changing the cage. Fewer droppings may indicate that your cockatiel is not eating well.
Your bird "fluffs up."
Cockatiels: 10 Things You Should Know
Learn everything you need to know about cockatiels, from cockatiel dust to cockatiel night frights.
These days, there’s plenty of great parrot advice floating around, and though much of it applies to the cockatiel, any cockatiel owner will tell you that her bird is special. That attitude might seem biased, but it’s true. The cockatiel requires some special considerations that new owners should know in order to best care for these unique birds.
1) Cockatiel DustThe cockatiel is one of three commonly kept parrots that create an abundance of bird dust. The other dust culprits are the cockatiel’s close cousin, the cockatoo, and theAfrican grey parrot. You might notice a layer of fine, white dust covering pretty much everything near your cockatiel’s cage, especially objects that draw dust with static, like the television. This dust comes from white powder-down feathers that grow close to the bird’s skin. These feathers emerge among the down feathers, and both are used to help insulate the bird. What’s unique about the powder down feathers is that the tips crumble into a fine dust as the bird preens, spreading the powder throughout the feathers and helping to waterproof the bird.
The dust isn’t a problem for most people, but it can create respiratory issues and even aggravate asthma for others. Cockatiels can cause allergic reactions in other pet birds kept in close proximity; macaws seem to be especially affected by dustier bird species.
Bathing your cockatiel frequently helps reduce feather dust, and placing a HEPA filternear the cage will polish the air and cut down the possibility of respiratory issues. I have had many cockatiels over the years, and I never so much as sneezed from the dust. And I’m not a compulsive duster.
2) Egg-Laying CockatielsMost hens have the singular mindset to make more cockatiels, even if there’s no male around. Frequent egg laying is a problem in cockatiels, and though egg laying is biologically innate, many female cockatiels will lay way too many eggs in short succession, causing potential health issues, including egg binding, paralysis, and weakening of the bones.
Just because she’s laying eggs does not mean that your cockatiel needs or wants a mate or to have babies. It means that her body has been sent external signals that it’s time to nest, and she can’t help her instincts. Usually, a cockatiel will come into mating condition when the light gets longer in the spring. An abundance of food and water also prompts a cockatiel to want to set up house. Since you’re not going to restrict your bird’s food and water, restrict the light your hen receives if she persists in laying eggs. Use sun lamps and/or a cage cover to allow no more than 10 hours of sunlight a day until her hormones calm down and she stops nesting.
If your bird is laying and sitting on eggs, allow her to have them for a few days, and then remove them. It’s not necessary to replace the eggs with plastic eggs, as many canary breeders do. This will only prolong her sitting on them. Nesting is very stressful for a female cockatiel without a male. Most pairs take turns sitting on the eggs, so if she’s alone, she might forgo the food and water dish in order to protect her eggs, even if they’ll never hatch.
If you have a pair of cockatiels and your hen is laying an abundance of eggs, remove any perceived nesting areas and you may have to move the male to another room temporarily if egg laying becomes a real problem. Consult your avian veterinarian for more advice on this issue.
3) Cockatiels Can Be Seed JunkiesAn all-seed diet greatly increases disease in most parrots and decreases lifespan significantly. But what do we feed a bird whose natural diet is mainly seeds? The cockatiel uses the same natural habitat as the Australian grass parakeets, and the foods it eats are similar, although the cockatiel has also been seen feeding on vegetation and insects. Also, the wild cockatiel’s diet consists of both young and mature seeds of all varieties, even seed crops, much to the chagrin of farmers.
There’s no way to mimic the cockatiel’s wild habitat in the average household. The wild cockatiel eats far more than a pet cockatiel, but it also exercises far more as well. It also doesn’t have a shot at living as long as your cockatiel. So, it’s best to feed your cockatielaccording to the research and advice that we use for all parrots; variety is key. Some seed is fine, but supplement it with pellets, cooked diets, nutritious vegetables and fruit. Even though your cockatiel might love seeds, don’t make it the only item in your bird’s dish.
4) Night Frights & Cockatiels
It’s the middle of the night and suddenly you’re woken from a deep sleep by the sound of thrashing and clanging — scary! You know it’s probably not an intruder; it’s your cockatiel having "night frights,” also called "night thrashing.” Cockatiels are notorious for this behavior. Something in the darkness frightens the bird; perhaps a noise, lights or shadows; and the bird tries to take off to protect itself and thrashes around its cage in a panic. It’s not unusual for a bird to harm itself this way, usually an injuring an eye, leg or breaking feathers.
To prevent or reduce the frequency of night frights, use a night light in the bird’s room, though some birds do better covered in complete darkness. You’ll have to evaluate your bird’s individual preferences after the night frights occur. Try to eliminate the trigger for the night frights. Perhaps your pet cat is stalking the birds at night, or headlights shine randomly into the window as cars pass, scaring the bird. If your bird still thrashes at night, consider using a night-time cage without a perch or toys, and line it with towels.
5) Respiratory SystemAll parrots have a sensitive respiratory system, but the athletic cockatiel is even more sensitive than most. This bird has a very light body for its size, and succumbs to fumes easily. Keep your bird's air toxin-free, and keep them well away from fumes from non-stick coating, candles, air fresheners and aerosol sprays.
6) Special Trims For CockatielsThe cockatiel is a light bird, so it needs a less-conservative wing trim than heavier parrots. The typical wing-feather trim involves trimming the ends of the first five or seven flight feathers. The cockatiel, however, needs all of the flight feathers trimmed and even a few of the lift feathers. A cockatiel with just a few flight feathers trimmed can fly like the wind!
7) Good Housemates For CockatielsThe cockatiel is well suited for aviary life. This bird is an agile flyer and appreciates being allowed to take advantage of this natural attribute. It also will appreciate being outdoors in good weather, soaking up the sunshine. Since it is a fairly docile bird, it does well in a large aviary with other docile birds, such as budgies, some species of grass parakeetsand some varieties finches. Do not house cockatiels with lovebirds or larger parrots; the cockatiel is unable to defend itself against these more aggressive birds.
8) Cockatiel: Long Tail, Big Bird CageThe cockatiel, with its long tail, needs a larger bird cage than a similar-sized bird with a shorter tail; otherwise its tail will rake against the bars and dip into the water cup, making it perpetually ratty.
Cockatiels also need to exercise, or they risk becoming "perch potatoes.” An overweight cockatiel can develop fatty tumors, gout, heart disease and general illness. Better to allow your cockatiel daily exercise than to spend a ton of cash at the vet’s office.
9) Expressive Crests On CockatielsThe cockatiel is the only small parrot with a head crest. The crest raises and lowers according to the bird’s mood. As you get to know your bird, you’ll come to understand what each crest position means. When the crest is raised to full height, it usually means that the bird is excited, fearful or curious. A lowered crest, with just the tip of it sticking up, indicated that the bird is content. Subtle differences in crest positions can signal an entirely different mood. For instance, an angry ’tiel might hold its crest tightly against its head, which is often accompanied with a hunched back.
The cockatiel is also one of the only small parrots that hisses and "spits” when afraid or behaving aggressively. Your ‘tiel is saying "Back off.”
10) Define Noisy With Cockatiels
Many people get cockatiels because they aren’t "loud.” Well, volume is subjective, and there are plenty of cockatiel owners with neighbors who would argue otherwise. Though the cockatiel isn’t particularly loud, it’s definitely persistent in its vocalizations. I once had an African grey that learned the cockatiel call in his previous home and performed it constantly at 10 times the volume; the worst of both worlds! Don’t get a cockatiel because you think it will be a quieter parrot. Get one because you like what the bird offers; a fun personality and a docile and quirky nature.
The dust isn’t a problem for most people, but it can create respiratory issues and even aggravate asthma for others. Cockatiels can cause allergic reactions in other pet birds kept in close proximity; macaws seem to be especially affected by dustier bird species.
Bathing your cockatiel frequently helps reduce feather dust, and placing a HEPA filternear the cage will polish the air and cut down the possibility of respiratory issues. I have had many cockatiels over the years, and I never so much as sneezed from the dust. And I’m not a compulsive duster.
2) Egg-Laying CockatielsMost hens have the singular mindset to make more cockatiels, even if there’s no male around. Frequent egg laying is a problem in cockatiels, and though egg laying is biologically innate, many female cockatiels will lay way too many eggs in short succession, causing potential health issues, including egg binding, paralysis, and weakening of the bones.
Just because she’s laying eggs does not mean that your cockatiel needs or wants a mate or to have babies. It means that her body has been sent external signals that it’s time to nest, and she can’t help her instincts. Usually, a cockatiel will come into mating condition when the light gets longer in the spring. An abundance of food and water also prompts a cockatiel to want to set up house. Since you’re not going to restrict your bird’s food and water, restrict the light your hen receives if she persists in laying eggs. Use sun lamps and/or a cage cover to allow no more than 10 hours of sunlight a day until her hormones calm down and she stops nesting.
If your bird is laying and sitting on eggs, allow her to have them for a few days, and then remove them. It’s not necessary to replace the eggs with plastic eggs, as many canary breeders do. This will only prolong her sitting on them. Nesting is very stressful for a female cockatiel without a male. Most pairs take turns sitting on the eggs, so if she’s alone, she might forgo the food and water dish in order to protect her eggs, even if they’ll never hatch.
If you have a pair of cockatiels and your hen is laying an abundance of eggs, remove any perceived nesting areas and you may have to move the male to another room temporarily if egg laying becomes a real problem. Consult your avian veterinarian for more advice on this issue.
3) Cockatiels Can Be Seed JunkiesAn all-seed diet greatly increases disease in most parrots and decreases lifespan significantly. But what do we feed a bird whose natural diet is mainly seeds? The cockatiel uses the same natural habitat as the Australian grass parakeets, and the foods it eats are similar, although the cockatiel has also been seen feeding on vegetation and insects. Also, the wild cockatiel’s diet consists of both young and mature seeds of all varieties, even seed crops, much to the chagrin of farmers.
There’s no way to mimic the cockatiel’s wild habitat in the average household. The wild cockatiel eats far more than a pet cockatiel, but it also exercises far more as well. It also doesn’t have a shot at living as long as your cockatiel. So, it’s best to feed your cockatielaccording to the research and advice that we use for all parrots; variety is key. Some seed is fine, but supplement it with pellets, cooked diets, nutritious vegetables and fruit. Even though your cockatiel might love seeds, don’t make it the only item in your bird’s dish.
4) Night Frights & Cockatiels
It’s the middle of the night and suddenly you’re woken from a deep sleep by the sound of thrashing and clanging — scary! You know it’s probably not an intruder; it’s your cockatiel having "night frights,” also called "night thrashing.” Cockatiels are notorious for this behavior. Something in the darkness frightens the bird; perhaps a noise, lights or shadows; and the bird tries to take off to protect itself and thrashes around its cage in a panic. It’s not unusual for a bird to harm itself this way, usually an injuring an eye, leg or breaking feathers.
To prevent or reduce the frequency of night frights, use a night light in the bird’s room, though some birds do better covered in complete darkness. You’ll have to evaluate your bird’s individual preferences after the night frights occur. Try to eliminate the trigger for the night frights. Perhaps your pet cat is stalking the birds at night, or headlights shine randomly into the window as cars pass, scaring the bird. If your bird still thrashes at night, consider using a night-time cage without a perch or toys, and line it with towels.
5) Respiratory SystemAll parrots have a sensitive respiratory system, but the athletic cockatiel is even more sensitive than most. This bird has a very light body for its size, and succumbs to fumes easily. Keep your bird's air toxin-free, and keep them well away from fumes from non-stick coating, candles, air fresheners and aerosol sprays.
6) Special Trims For CockatielsThe cockatiel is a light bird, so it needs a less-conservative wing trim than heavier parrots. The typical wing-feather trim involves trimming the ends of the first five or seven flight feathers. The cockatiel, however, needs all of the flight feathers trimmed and even a few of the lift feathers. A cockatiel with just a few flight feathers trimmed can fly like the wind!
7) Good Housemates For CockatielsThe cockatiel is well suited for aviary life. This bird is an agile flyer and appreciates being allowed to take advantage of this natural attribute. It also will appreciate being outdoors in good weather, soaking up the sunshine. Since it is a fairly docile bird, it does well in a large aviary with other docile birds, such as budgies, some species of grass parakeetsand some varieties finches. Do not house cockatiels with lovebirds or larger parrots; the cockatiel is unable to defend itself against these more aggressive birds.
8) Cockatiel: Long Tail, Big Bird CageThe cockatiel, with its long tail, needs a larger bird cage than a similar-sized bird with a shorter tail; otherwise its tail will rake against the bars and dip into the water cup, making it perpetually ratty.
Cockatiels also need to exercise, or they risk becoming "perch potatoes.” An overweight cockatiel can develop fatty tumors, gout, heart disease and general illness. Better to allow your cockatiel daily exercise than to spend a ton of cash at the vet’s office.
9) Expressive Crests On CockatielsThe cockatiel is the only small parrot with a head crest. The crest raises and lowers according to the bird’s mood. As you get to know your bird, you’ll come to understand what each crest position means. When the crest is raised to full height, it usually means that the bird is excited, fearful or curious. A lowered crest, with just the tip of it sticking up, indicated that the bird is content. Subtle differences in crest positions can signal an entirely different mood. For instance, an angry ’tiel might hold its crest tightly against its head, which is often accompanied with a hunched back.
The cockatiel is also one of the only small parrots that hisses and "spits” when afraid or behaving aggressively. Your ‘tiel is saying "Back off.”
10) Define Noisy With Cockatiels
Many people get cockatiels because they aren’t "loud.” Well, volume is subjective, and there are plenty of cockatiel owners with neighbors who would argue otherwise. Though the cockatiel isn’t particularly loud, it’s definitely persistent in its vocalizations. I once had an African grey that learned the cockatiel call in his previous home and performed it constantly at 10 times the volume; the worst of both worlds! Don’t get a cockatiel because you think it will be a quieter parrot. Get one because you like what the bird offers; a fun personality and a docile and quirky nature.
Interesting Facts About Cockatiels
• The Cockatiel was first discovered in Australia in 1770. It did not become popular until the Australian gold rush in the nineteen hundreds.
• The fumes emitted from cookware coated with Teflon can kill your Cockatiel.
• Cockatiel seeds, how do you know if they are good and nutritious?
Sprout them! If less than 70% of the seeds sprout, they have died and also its nutritional value. Place some cockatiel seeds on a container covered with a paper towel. Soak the seeds with water. Make sure you keep the seed moist for the next few days by just spraying them, they should sprout in about 4 to 5 days. You can wash them and can give them to your tiel, they are very good and nutritious.
Sprout them! If less than 70% of the seeds sprout, they have died and also its nutritional value. Place some cockatiel seeds on a container covered with a paper towel. Soak the seeds with water. Make sure you keep the seed moist for the next few days by just spraying them, they should sprout in about 4 to 5 days. You can wash them and can give them to your tiel, they are very good and nutritious.
• Do you know what a Galatiel is? Is when a cockatiel and an Australian bird named Gallah have chicks together
• In the wild, you'll see immense flocks of cockatiels circling the sky in search of large bodies of water where they can rest, breed, and escape from the Australian heat.
• Cockatiels are very sociable birds and will get depressed if they are left alone for long periods of time. They may hit their heads against cages, pull their feathers, refuse to eat, or become angry. It’s best to get a pair of cockatiels if you know you’ll be out of your house for long periods of time.
• Male cockatiels are better are talking and whistling than female cockatiels. In the wild the male cockatiel use sounds to attract females.
• Cockatiels can be considered as the most widely kept parrot other than parakeet or budgie.
• Hand fed cockatiels are more likely to talk than the parent fed ones.
• If having a talking bird is your prime goal you might consider a larger parrot before getting a cockatiel. It's easier for a cockatiel to whistle than to talk.
• The cockatiel life span can reach up to 22 years, though the standard is 15 years. This life span is based on proper care, nutrition and environment where your tiel lives.
• Drafty areas in your house can be very bad for your cockatiel, it can even kill them by making your tiel very sick. Don't place the cage anywhere there might be a direct or indirect draft like air conditioning vents. If you want to find out if there is a draft you are not aware of, place a candle in the area you are thinking of placing the cage. It if flickers, there's a draft there, so find another area for your cage.
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what cockatiel food can I not feed ?
Never give your cockatiel alcohol, avocado or chocolate - these can kill your cockatiel.
Also avoid asparagus, aubergine or eggplant, cabbage, caffeine (tea and coffee), junk food,
milk and cream, raw potato, and rhubarb (including the leaves).
Please just use your common sense when it comes to feeding your
cockatiel. Many plants and food items are unsafe, so if you have any doubt,
do not offer it to your cockatiel.
http://budgerigarunivers.blogspot.com/cockatiel illness / cockatiel health - is my cockatiel sick ?
In the wild if cockatiels let their guard down and show they are unwell they will become the victims of predators. Therefore it is natural for cockatiels to conceal their illness as long as possible.
By observing your cockatiel daily you will learn its normal behavior and anything out of the ordinary should draw your attention. If your cockatiel looks ill it normally means it is really sick and can deteriorate extremely quickly.
When you detect any of the following signs of illness you should take your cockatiel to an avian vet as soon as possible - try to visit a vet experienced with birds so a correct diagnosis can be given.
Signs of illness to watch out for:
abnormal breathing abnormal droppings (note the quantity, color, consistency) abnormal feathers, feather growth, or molt abnormal sleep pattern:- continuous- both feet on the perch when normally one foot is tucked up- head tucked under the wing- head turned towards the wing with eyes only partly closed any change in normal activities:- talking or whistling- playing with toys- preening- interaction with other birds- interaction with humans- energy levels- different perching area bleeding discharge from the beak, eyes or nostrils disorientation drinking a lot more water than usual drooping head, tail or wings dull or swollen eyes excessive feather picking or plucking face and head feathers coated with mucus and semi-digested seed falling off the perch fluffed up appearance hunched over posture loss of appetite lumps or swellings on the body sitting on the bottom of the cage soiled vent tail constantly moving up and down untidy appearance vomiting weight losshttp://budgerigarunivers.blogspot.com/
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